MARSHMALLOW SHRIMP
Having fun with Georgia white shrimp.
12 shrimp, large one ounce each, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons red bell pepper, diced
2 tablespoons green bell pepper, diced
2 tablespoons Vidalia onion, diced
2 tablespoons Rice vinegar
3 tablespoons honey
1-tablespoon Sriracha chili sauce (Green Tabasco or Cholula OK as well)
1-teaspoon kosher salt, or coarse sea salt
12 cashew halves
12 medium marshmallows
Heat the butter in a medium skillet on high. Add peppers and onions and cook to just tender. Add shrimp and cook two minutes on each side with heat on medium. Sprinkle vinegar, honey and Sriracha into the skillet and mix ingredients. Place one marshmallow on top of each shrimp, and then one cashew half on top of that, place pan in 400~ oven for two minutes. The marshmallow will melt and brown.
Chinook Salmon and Sesame Catfish
THE RETURN OF THE KINGS OF SUMMER:
GRILLED SALMON WITH PINEAPPLE AND ROSEMARY
AND
SEARED SESAME CATFISH WITH BABY BOK CHOY
The return of summer for the West and the South is defined by two fish, for the West it is salmon and for the South it is catfish. Today we pay our culinary respects to the mighty King Salmon, the Chinook, the Coho, the Pink, the Silver bright (chum), and the fatty, deep red Sockeye. It will be grilled with rosemary and pineapple. This traveler of the oceans who knows two homes, the river bed of their birth and the oceans they explore and live before returning to spawn and die in the smooth rocks from which they were raised. I can imagine no life so determined and so beneficial to all life as the salmon. They swim UP waterfalls! Imagine how they swim upstream. They manage every possible roadblock in the water world. As fingerlings they feed a great amount of other fish, as kings of the sea they devour tons of krill and shrimp. After a few years they return from their mystery tour of the seas to the mouths of the rivers of their birth. They then stop feeding. After crossing our dams and our intrusions, our overheated overflows, our pollution, they pass waterfall and rapids, they pass bears and other mammals, they pass our nets and lures, and then they spawn and die. At the end of this journey they nurture the soil and they enrichen the fresh water with their decaying bones. Parts of our Northwest are alive and green, the rivers themselves are alive, all by the presence of the powerful and life giving salmon.
I feel a kinship to this fish. Much of my life has been enjoyed on the rocks and sands of the magnificent coasts of Northern California and the Carolinas. I am a native Georgian, and by native I mean going back into the 1700’s where my relatives settled into what is known as Tucker, Georgia. There is a lot of Irish and English in my DNA. The wandering nature of my life I attribute to the ancient line of world roaming Celts, and of course of personal love of our beautiful nation. How did I come to enjoy working with the flavors of America and of the far Pacific? By traveling in both life and thought through the vast network of poetry, food and philosophy that this land has to offer. My love of salmon is not just culinary; it is also a philosophic and poetic love. Watching the salmon run on a river is beyond description. Understanding the life of the salmon is to understand how Life interacts in our world where all things really are connected and that all life is sacred. As with all life on this earth we must work to protect and properly harvest salmon so that we can enjoy the flavor and health benefits, and so that the ecosystem can flourish through the life of this unmatched species of life. Wild salmon is filled with all things good for our health. Also, fresh wild salmon is just about one of the best tasting things I have ever eaten. In June I will be hosting a sustainable seafood dinner at the restaurant for those of you interested in the benefits of our streams and oceans.
Now on to the good stuff of why we are here: the fish and the grill! Everything will be cooked on the grill. And I trust you are eating outside, close to the source. Also, if you are buying your fish at Publix or Earthfare, remember that their seafood delivery days are Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Ask ahead for special fish so that they can have it in for you. Except for my Hawaiian fish we use the same purveyor, Inland Seafood, so I can vouch for the superb quality.
We will be using wild Chinook salmon for this recipe. If you cannot find the wild Chinook (King), then use sockeye, chum or Coho. If at all possible avoid the Pacific Ocean farmed Atlantic salmon as the harm outweighs the benefits of this particular fish. The first run of Chinook is a treasure. This fish is fatty, healthy, strong, large, and full of wide flaked meat. If you buy the whole fish you can use the head and backbones for fish stock for a rich and hearty chowder. When buying the steak cut go for the one that still has the backbone in it as this has more flavor and is more amenable to the grill. After it has grilled just lift the center bone out of the fish, all the other bones will come along with it.
What better way to celebrate Summer than with the best of both coasts? Catfish and Salmon! We will have catfish for the appetizer and salmon for the entrée. I recommend frozen green grapes, blueberries and raspberries sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar for a cooling dessert.
The history of Southern cuisine is lush with odes to catfish. From the catch to the table this slick fellow is the South. Can you imagine the writings of Mark Twain, or even our own late, beloved Lewis Grizzard without catfish? As a boy I learned to fish by catching bream, crappie and catfish. Later in life I developed a love of fly-fishing for trout and steelhead. A s my Uncle Allen Driscoll tells me I will end up at the end of a boat spinning for the three great bass species. Any way it goes, I am happy just to be near the water. This is pretty much how it is for most of us who grow up in a fishing boat, on the edge of a stream, or in the cold surf.
Farmed catfish is a stellar example of environmentally friendly and delicious fish cultivation. Catfish, trout and tilapia farming are what fish farming is all about. Everything is used, and nothing is poisonous to the earth or to us, the consumer. And besides, each one is delicious and easy to prepare.
For our grill we use an equal portion of two different charcoal briquettes, coconut and hickory. Coconut charcoal for intense heat, and hickory for the flavor.
It has to be blazing hot for the catfish appetizer so don’t fear the red glow from the base of your grill when the coconut charcoals are primed. By the time you get to cooking the salmon (20 minutes) the coals will have calmed down a bit and the hickory smoke will be dominate in the mix. This meal is for 4 people.
Four hours before it’s time to eat you will do all of the preparations. This way when the grill is ready all you do is cook and eat. Oh yes!
SESAME CATFISH
1 pound catfish cut into two inch cubes
4 teaspoons soy sauce
1/2 cup green onions, chopped
2 ounces cilantro, fresh, chopped
4 tablespoons poblano pepper, diced
1 cup beer (yeah beer, any non-light kind)
1 teaspoon Tabasco Sauce
2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 teaspoons sesame oil
8 bamboo skewers
Mix all together in bowl and marinade in refrigerator for three hours. This removes the pond taste and gives them an extra punch of flavor. Four pieces of catfish per skewer.
GREENS
4 heads baby bok choy (find this at Fooks Market on Baxter St)
1 medium red onion (or Vidalia if they are any good this year)
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut in long thin strips
2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut in long thin strips
1/2 cup sweet rice vinegar
1/4 cup turbinado sugar (raw sugar)
Cut the baby bok choy (a.k.a. Shanghai cabbage) in half. Slice the red onion in rings. Mix all together in large mixing bowl and marinade two to three hours. After it marinades, drain the liquid before cooking it. Roll the Shanghai cabbage in aluminum foil.
SALMON
4 –8 ounce salmon steaks
1 cup pineapple juice
2 tablespoons coarse pink sea salt, or any other coarse salt
1 tablespoon coarse black pepper
1/2 cup oyster sauce (Asian section of store or at Fooks store)
1/3 cup corn oil
4 stalks rosemary, fresh of course
1 pineapple, check to see that it is a sweet one
When it comes to the oyster sauce, as with all things culinary the better the brand the better the flavor. Mix the pineapple juice, salt, black pepper, and oyster sauce together. Core and cut the pineapple into one-inch thick triangles. Cut the rosemary stalks into 8 two-inch pieces. Pierce each salmon with two rosemary fronds. Rub the salmon steaks with the oyster sauce mixture and let them set in this for about thirty minutes. Save the juices for brushing the steaks while they grill. Save the corn oil for grilling time. You can buy rosemary bushes at Home Depot.
IF you have a rosemary bush all you gotta do is reach over and pinch a bunch off of the bush and throw it on the grill for extra flavor. Two years ago I presented a salmon recipe with rosemary, so as an anniversary memoir I am using the two together again, in a different way, but still together. Fresh rosemary is an incredibly versatile herb that I think is not used enough in the home kitchen from appetizers to desserts. It must be fresh. I’ve used it in crème brulee, ice creams, savory dishes, with fruits, with roasts, on the grill, and as a garnish. Fresh rosemary is without bounds and in many ways has more uses than even the most popular of all, basil.
HONEY WASABI SAUCE FOR THE SALMON
1 tablespoon wasabi powder
1/2 cup honey (check for different kinds of flower honey)
2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 cup mayonnaise
Whisk all together and refrigerate until time for supper.
VEGETABLE
Do you ever feel as if you were a slave to the will and whim of the grocery stores here in the Athens area? FOOKS on Baxter in Athens is a great choice for a concise selection of Pan Asian ingredients.
That no matter what you plan they will not have the best produce that you need? If that is the case then make the drive to the International Farmers Market, or to the market at 99 Ranch, and best of the best is Super H on Pleasantdale Road. What you save in groceries far exceeds the cost of gas in driving there and back. If you have no idea what it is that you are looking at when you examine the produce, the seafood or the prepared foods and ingredients then just ask anyone close by. In my experiences most of the time people are more than happy and ready to not only tell you what a food is but also how best to prepare it the same way they did in their native lands.
If you are afraid to try the too culturally different, then stick to the tried and true of grilling our own sweet corn and zucchini, yellow squash, or green tomatoes. After all, Southern cuisine is a true and valued food all it’s own just the same as any other international cuisine like French, Chinese or Italian. True Southern, for many of us, is really the first and foremost food of life. Thing is, you really must follow the rules of fresh and take your time. Fresh is the only way to cook. There is no excuse today to cook any other way. Some will eat to live, and others happily live to eat. I prefer to live to eat. When you live to eat there is no obstacle too great to stand between yourself and a cherished meal or ingredient.
So, if you can’t make the drive and the yellow squash is looking good then go with the squash. It’s the same for sweet corn as either is perfect on the grill with salmon and pineapple. The plate will be sort of yellow looking but that’s ok. Sometimes our foods can’t be as colorful as we would like.
GRILLING
The first stage is ready. The grill is fire hot from the coconut or cherry wood coals. Place the roll of Shanghai cabbage on the backside of the grill. After five minutes brush the grill with peanut oil and place the catfish skewers on the grill. Cover the grill. Turn them after five minutes. Turn again and cook for another five minutes. So, that’s fifteen minutes cook time for the first course.
Unroll the baby bock choy and divide between four plates. Place two catfish skewers on each plate. Pour the juice from the boy choy over the food. Garnish with lemon and cilantro.
For the salmon brush the grill with corn oil. The heat should be a bit calmer by this time. You will grill the fish five minutes per side, turning three times. Be careful when you turn the fish over as they may stick, so use a flat metal spatula to loosen them off of the grill rails. Place pineapple on the grill at the same time as the salmon, but only turn the pineapple triangles two times. This is also fifteen minutes cook time for the second course of your meal. The squash only needs about ten minutes. Corn will need about fifteen minutes. The hickory flavor of the smoke should be plenty enough seasoning for the vegetables. If that is not enough then sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little bit of chopped fresh garlic.
When they have cooked remove the salmon from the grill and pull out the backbone. Then pull out the rosemary sticks. Brush the fish with the honey wasabi mayonnaise and set on plates. Arrange pineapple and vegetable around your centerpiece of salmon. Sprinkle chopped macadamia nuts or cashews mixed with chopped parsley and rosemary over it all. Garnish with lime and red bell pepper.
FROZEN BERRIES
1 pint blueberries
1 pint raspberries
1 bunch green seedless grapes
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Pick the grapes off the stems. Arrange the fruits on a freezer proof plate. Sprinkle with the sugar. Freeze. When it’s time to eat just place the plate on the table and munch along as the sun goes down on your perfect Georgia day with friends by the grill. And that, all together, is the way to live to eat.
GRILLING MY LIFE AWAY
Sometimes a warm summer night is all we need
To see how beloved this Southern life can be,
For me it’s how I cherish, how I care and prepare,
For others it’s just the way the day crawls by,
How we sit and chat and watch the flowers in the breeze,
And any way you slice it there’s no other way to live
Than passing the time on a porch in Georgia in late August.
Chef Lamar’s Iron Grill (Food You Want To Eat; World Comfort Food)
We have settled affairs and will be opening a new restaurant in Athens, GA
Lamar’s Iron Grill. It is NOT in Downtown Athens. After a lot of research we decided on being outside of the central city. Parking, building design, neighborhoods, open deck, easy access to the loop and to Downtown all factored into our location. 1155 Mitchell Bridge Road in what is called The Arbor, next to The Arbor Salon.
I am in a partnership with David Clapp, owner of Dantanna’s and Cafe Tu Tu Tango. He is an old friend and one of the sharper restaurant minds that I know. This is something that makes me very happy. I am continuing forward with my take on World Cuisine this time by moving my favorite aspects of Pan Asia into the same field as Southern. We will be doing a lot of small plates of various seafood, oysters, pink curry green shell mussels, ceviche, tataki, crudo and carpaccio with Southern relishes and pickles relating both to Korean and Georgia style, bridging the gap of sweet and sour.
Stocks are all dashi and pho style. Rice cake pasta (gnocchi is similar to this).
Even going to do a take on mac and cheese, really. Whole pig roast every Thursday (cooked in a Caja China box). Pork and apple egg rolls. Linguisa sausage and purple yams, pork loin with garam masala and grilled pineapple.
Not a lot of seafood on the main menu itself as I will have to do this completely market based, hence seafood will continue to be a featured favorite by always being a “special”. The small plates/tapas/bites will have a lot of truly fresh seafood which means the specials and ceviche/crudo will have some of the same species but in different styles.
My whole affection for Hawaiian and Carolina coastal fish is always at the forefront of the food. The meats will continue with hormone, antibiotic free, slow growth fowl, local Rhode Island Red Hen eggs; duck eggs will make a
few appearances. Nothing is more pleasurable than looking at what is ordinary and extraordinary and bringing them together into same plate. I feel like I have always been pushing towards a kind of World Comfort Food, and this is a progression deeper into the bright flavors and warmth of what is modern cuisine
Satay, Kabob, Grilling Meat On A Stick!
HOT GRILL COOKING IN THE SUMMER (06.2010)
We are in the grilling season. Every season in North Georgia is grilling season. Hot, cool, warm and cold; sunny, cloudy, stormy and clear it is all the same when the love of smoke and the outdoors is part of your ingredient list for your recipes. Since childhood we have marveled at the glory in the differences between burnt and tanned marshmallows. We have argued over which was better, burnt or tan. Is it better to skewer them on coat hangers or maple/elm/hickory sticks? Over the fire itself or near by to the coals? Marshmallows at a camp South to Savannah and the Okefenokee or North to Standing Indian Gap and War Woman Road, Camp Eagle or Stone Mountain all taste as good as at any other. Things on a stick. Seems that anything grilled on a stick is delicious. Primal, woodland, easy to cook and easy to eat.
Satay indicates Indonesian and South Asian styles of grilling on a bamboo stick. Kabob relates to our European and Near East forms of stick cuisine on flaming swords and metal skewers. You do not always need a fork or a plate. Plated satay and kabobs can be arranged into dramatic statements by simple remembering how Lincoln Logs worked for stacking and making teepees. For absolute drama grill on a long metal skewer or fencing foil type instrument, move it from the heat and drizzle 100 proof rum on to the meat, move it back to the heat so that it catches on fire, i.e. flambé and then push the meat onto a plate with a long serving fork. Very Brazilian, Tahitian and Classic French! See, all cultures enjoy a good flame.
Our satay will be chicken and pork. The peanut sauce is called Nam Jim Satay. The sauce for the chicken is a take on Tom Yum Goong because I think that hot and sour shrimp is a nice companion to grilled chicken. The kabobs are beef with onion and mushrooms with a thickened Worcestershire and Rum glaze; and cubed catfish with corn and peppers on watermelon and yellow tomatoes with sesame soy dipping sauce. Meat on a stick is easy. Plan ahead and enjoy the warm evening, watch the fireflies dance for a while, cook, eat and love the life, the beautiful fact that we are in the South.
Now is a good time to strongly suggest that you date and label all your home made foods that will kept in the refrigerator. Also dating and labeling is a good thing for rice, grains and flour products in the pantry. Spices do lose quality with age so only buy as much as you will use in a short period of time. Toasting spices brings out the natural oils and elevates the flavors of the spice back to a fresh state. Do not be afraid. Today there is always a specialty grocer close enough for supplies.
Fish sauce is known by several grades, I use the Three Crabs or Golden Boy for sauté dishes and the Tiparos dark brand for sauces. Be aware that fish sauce/nam pla on it’s own smells like wet dog, but when cooked it adds a very delicate flavor of calamari, crab and shrimp to the dish. Fish sauce is made with anchovy or any other oily fresh or salt water fish. It is literally salted, fermented fish water. Sounds crazy but not only do great nam pla brands like Golden Boy fully enhance the flavor of your foods it is also a high protein.
Fish sauce is as much as 10% high protein, and this protein is a complete one. It contains all the essential amino acids that the body requires for growth and regeneration. It also contains a rich supply of B vitamins, especially B 12 and pantothenic acid, riboflavin and niacin. Other beneficial nutrients include calcium, phosphorous, iodine and iron. Pantothenic acid is a B5 vitamin that aides in synthesis and binding of proteins, hence regeneration.
This list of curries will prove quite useful in your cooking and dining.
red curry paste – prig gang ped
Red curry paste is the most common of all the curry pastes. It is used widely in many dishes that you are familiar with such as tod mun and satay. Red curry paste is a mixture of dry chili pepper, shallot, garlic, galangal, lemon grass, cilantro root, peppercorn, coriander, salt, shrimp paste and kaffir lime zest.
green curry paste – prig gang kew wan
Green curry paste has the exact ingredients as the red one with the exception of the dried chili pepper. Fresh green pepper is substituted.
yellow curry paste – prig gang leung
Yellow curry comes from Southern Thailand and is similar to red or green curry, but it is made with yellow peppers and turmeric.
masaman curry paste – prig gang masaman
This is also known as matsaman and/or massaman
Masaman is an Indian influenced curry. Masaman curry paste has several Indian spices such as cumin, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. When sold in Thailand, you can see whole white cardamom pods in the paste.
nam prig pow or nam prik pow
This is also known as prik pao and/or chilli paste soya beans
There are many variations of this, but the core mixture is: shallots, garlic, shrimp paste, dry chili pepper, salt, and sugar. Frequently there is also tamarind paste and dried shrimp.
namya curry paste
This curry paste is a mix of shallots, garlic, lemon grass, galangal, gra chai, pepper, salt and shrimp paste. (gar chai is a kind of ginger)
This note on curries is from the Thai Table.
PORK SATAY
You can use butt or loin for this dish. It will be necessary to pound the meat thin, or if you are good with a knife then thinly sliced and you are there!
The sauce is a classic Thai peanut sauce. I often substitute cashews and pecans for peanuts for restaurant use because of the prevalence of peanut allergies today. Home made red curry can be kept in your refrigerator for over a month. As always, sealed air tight in a plastic container.
MARINADE
1 pound pork loin, sliced into 8, 2 ounce slices
1 teaspoon light brown turbinado crystals
or palm sugar
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons curry powder
1 teaspoon ginger, grated
½ cup coconut milk
8 bamboo skewers
Slide the pork onto the skewers. Combine ingredients in shallow plastic pan and submerge the pork into the marinade. Cover and refrigerate over night.
For the sake of magazine space and keeping things a bit less complicated for the home cook we will use Worcestershire and red curry paste from the store instead of tamarind and home made curry. Do look up and make your own Thai and Viet curries when you have the time to discover how and why curry is so complicated, varied and wonderful.
NAM JIM SATAY
2 tablespoons Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce
1 tablespoon palm sugar
3 tablespoons ground peanuts or peanut butter
You can also use cashews for this satay sauce.
2 tablespoons fish sauce/nam pla
1 tablespoon red curry paste
¾ cup coconut milk
If you want it lighter then use young coconut juice.
Combine ingredients in food processor or mortar and pestle to smooth. Toast in pan over medium heat. Stir the whole time it is cooking so that it does not burn and does not stick to the pan. Cook 3 minutes.
Remove and keep in warm place.
Grill satay skewers over hot coals. It will take about ten minutes hot, 15 minutes over medium hot coals. Paint the Nam Jim Satay on the satay as they grill. Serve with Thai sticky rice and slices of mango.
After you make our two Thai sauces you will understand how important the balance of hot, sour, salty, sweet and umami (mouth watering, delicious) are in Southeast Asian and Singaporean cuisine. Indonesian/Singapore they do not use as much coconut milk as with the foods of Thailand. Tamarind is used in making Worcestershire sauce. Tamarind is the pulp of the big brown seed pods that grow on tamarind trees. It has a slight lime tea kind of flavor. I use it a lot.
CHICKEN SATAY TOM YUM GOONG
Bamboo skewers and a thickened sauce makes for a great day at the table. While grilling satay skewers grill fresh pineapple or watermelon along with the meats. This combination makes for a unified smoky and outdoors flavor while being fresh and sweet at the same time.
Tom Yum is a famous Thai soup, sauce or appetizer preparation. We will use Tom Yum as sauce for our grilled salt and pepper bamboo chicken. I like all of the chicken, dark and white meat alike. Flavor is with the bone and the dark meat. If you are not familiar with boning a chicken then buy boneless thigh and breast. For our dish we will use chicken tenders, the moist and tender underside of the breast. You will not have to pound or cut them, just insert the bamboo.
SKEWERS
16 ounces tenders, 2 ounces each
8 bamboo skewers soaked in hot water one hour
This prevents the wood from burning.
½ teaspoon coarse sea salt
½ teaspoon coarse black pepper
Rub chicken with salt and pepper. One tender per skewer.
TOM YUM GOON
4 cups water
1 cup bay shrimp
1 juice of one lime
1 stalk lemon grass
3 kaffir lime leaves (if you cannot find them then use the zest of key limes and one lavender flower)
2 tablespoons fish sauce
¼ cup fresh cilantro, torn and rough chopped
3 thai bird chili peppers (if you do not have then use
a serrano pepper, thinly sliced)
1 teaspoon shrimp paste
1 teaspoon red miso paste
Combine ingredients and heat on medium heat in saucepan. Stir often and cook for 20 minutes. Strain. Keep warm
Grill the skewers 15 minutes on medium coals, turn four times. Set on plate and pour a half ounce of sauce over each chicken. Serve with a red cabbage, cucumber and fennel slaw.
BEEF KABOBS
We have all put beef and mushrooms on a stick and grilled them at sometime in our lives, but have we set them on fire with 100 proof rum? This is the fun.
1 pound tenderloin of beef, cut into 16 cubes
16 crimini mushrooms, washed (if you have access to
King mushrooms then by all means use them)
16 metal skewers
Mushroom, meat, mushroom, meat on the skewer.
SAUCE
4 ounces 100 proof rum
4 ounces Lea And Perrins Worcestershire sauce
1 lemon, the juice
1 ounce soy sauce
1 ounce fig or pear balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, toasted
Combine all except the rum and heat on high heat to boil. Stir and turn down to medium. Simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and keep warm.
Grill the kabobs to your preferred temperature. When they are cooked remove from the heat and pour the rum over each kabob. Return to very hot grill and have them flambé. If they do not catch fire that is OK, but the fun is the fiery sword of beef.
Plate with grilled potatoes and asparagus. Glaze each kabob with the sauce.
CATFISH KABOBS
You can use any fresh water or saltwater fish for this as long as it is very fresh.
1 pound catfish, cut in 16 one ounce cubes
1 cup buttermilk
Soak catfish in buttermilk over night.
½ teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon white corn meal
Combine with the catfish so that each cube is coated with spice.
2 ears fresh corn, cut into 16 circle slices
8 slices red bell pepper
8 bamboo or metal skewers
Slide the ingredients on each skewer in this order: pepper, catfish, corn, pepper, catfish corn.
Grill on very high heat for 10 minutes or until catfish is cooked.
SAUCE
1 cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
3 stalks green onion, sliced
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon molasses
1 teaspoon sugar
1 jalapeno, thin sliced
½ teaspoon cornstarch
Heat on medium high heat for 10 minutes.
MELON AND TOMATO
4 watermelon, wedges, no rind
8 slices yellow tomato
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/3 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon apple juice
1 tablespoon Mexican style crumble fresh cheese (queso fresca)
Set on plate and sprinkle with salt, pepper and cheese.
Place kabobs next to watermelon and tomato with small dish of sauce on plate.
Accompany with German potato salad and Southern style slaw.
Walk with me here where the honeysuckle blooms
Where the ocean sky ripples with each cloud passing,
Soft footsteps by the houses whose dogs are too lonely,
Behind the fences barking, but just wanting a friend.
Pulling the golden closer and the lab a little tighter,
They are so beautiful playing in the last light of day,
Their coats catching these last rays of light,
Pure joy just to walk, all of us walking,
Loving the peace that is this day, like many others,
A day hand in hand, just the dogs, you and I.
And what makes these hours brighter
Are the words of love with a Southern drawl,
The ways of a smile that none may ever name.
Donnie And Sanni Chambers, Married 4.17.10 A Beautiful Day
ATHENS, GEORGIA, RIVERHILL ROAD APRIL 17 2010
It was a constellation rich night in the early heat of summer.
Me and a pack of poets and musicians gathered together
For a big feast, in a big backyard, with big stories to tell,
And there’s all the time in the world to tell them,
Yeah, and there’s even more time to listen to them.
Georgia’s sweet that way, we talk, we talk a lot.
I want to talk about Donnie, and about this woman he loves.
The man, he’s so beautiful when he’s in love, his voice
Not quite so torn and his eyes not baggy, almost clear.
And it was this woman, this svelte gorgeous mystery, Sanni,
She arose at the just the right moment,
We all started singing famous hayride songs,
He started writing about dawn and dances,
About Halleluiah and victories in a kiss.
It’s like that, Sanni arrived. I swear I saw him smile.
That snap of the seconds when we all thought
He had had his last date with silver linings.
We saw the azaleas and wisteria start blooming.
This looming man for whom happiness was once a taunt.
He was happy. Donnie, singing rock and roll.
Was he ready to set sail up the brown Oconee River?
Was he ready to follow catfish and perch
To the Bear Creek Reservoir?
Not yet. No. He was not ready.
This guys playing an electric guitar.
It was just like that, right now, when Sanni arrived.
She looked at him and smiled and I swear
I heard rainbows shooting down his Vaudeville days.
And today it is just like this, in a day famous for it’s luster,
On an afternoon more full with joy than mosquitoes and mist,
Yep, today it is just like this, Sanni and Donnie have arrived.
Salads….Sort of a love song and a food
GRAINS, FLOWERS, LEAVES AND APPLES IN THE WONDERFUL MONTH OF MAY
Hello Princess Spring-To-Summer where are the tomatoes are growing green and the peppers are beginning to cross the line from sweet to heat. Surround your home with fragrant herbs, sweet lettuces, and flowers. The bounty of better boy and heritage tomatoes, of sweet bell peppers and life threatening habanera, the long strands of strawberry and stevia all growing upside in those topsy turvy pots, or right side up in cages and steps. It just does not matter where or how, this is the South, this is way we dress our home in all things edible and where they don’t grow then all things green and blossoming. Salads, the quick and the easy plucked from the yard. We are entering the salad times so let’s look at a few that are fast and easy, if not delicious and untamed.
I was caught surprise by a bogey message in my daily planner that photographs were due so I messaged Bryan Redding, editor and favorite photographer, and said that if pictures were necessary I was not ready. Then of course he called and asked if I wanted to do photographs today. I said, “Why not, let’s do salads. I have a pantry, yard and refrigerator ready except for tomatoes.” I lied. I had no idea what I was going to do so I purchased time by asking him to stop by Kroger, Publix or Earthfare to see if they had those tomatoes on the vine that they sell sometimes. Not the best but good when nothing is fruiting in the home patch.
He said, “Sure, I’ll be there in 30 minutes.” Haha!
And thus we have three nice salads: quinoa and pigeon peas with “pancetta” style seasoned hog jowl bacon; romaine with rose hips, dried fruits, almonds and sesame-wasabi dressing; purple and Yukon gold potatoes with apple, tomato, boiled egg, sweet William flowers and bleu cheese. There are many things that can be done in a hurry and as long as there are olive oils, seasoned oils, flavored vinegars, cheeses, some kind of lettuce and choice grains and legumes then anything can happen come surprise or planning.
Pigeon peas are a hot weather legume. They look like big sweet pea, green bean or soy bean pod. They are a meaty pea and can be used fresh or dried. They do not like frost, but they will grow strong for about five years. It takes three to four months from planting before they start to produce pods. They grow tall and require a trellis. Bees love the pea flowers. That’s for the gardeners in the bunch here. As with all legumes they are high in protein. They are used in India for making dhal. Western recipes prefer to say that dhal is made with lentils , soy beans and red beans but pigeon peas are the true source of this great dish.
When using the dried pea you can make flour out of them in a high speed Vita Prep style blender. I enjoy making my own flours out of beans, rice and grains. There is something great to be said for taking the few minutes to make your own flour. The proof is always in the flavor.
Pigeon peas must be cooked to soft but still round for our purposes here today. You can cook them like any pea to whatever your purpose is from soft to mash, it all depends on the purpose of the recipe.
I have written many times about quinoa and will continue to write about quinoa. This mother grain has more proteins than any other edible seed. It is grown from the Andes to Columbia and has been central to South American cuisine for centuries prior to the Spanish conquest of the Inca and Mayan cultures.
The Spanish suppressed this mighty grain for many reasons, one is that they considered it a food of lesser cultures. Because it was overlooked by the invading nationalities it took a while for quinoa to catch on in North American cookery. This is similar to the way that whole wheat bread and white bread alternated over the centuries. Whole wheat was a food for the workers during the building of the pyramids while white bread was for royalty and upper classes. We now know that whole wheat is much more healthy. It may also be possible that quinoa did not catch on because it was bitter to European tastes. After all, they did take the potato, corn and tomato and adapted them to gardens the world over.
Quinoa is good cooked like rice or ground to make flour for bread; it is used even in making beer and as a leaf substitute for spinach. It is always necessary to rinse quinoa before cooking to remove any bitter hull that may still be on the seeds. As with rinsing rice, rinsing quinoa is part of the cooking process, although it is not necessary to soak the quinoa before cooking. If you soak quinoa for a few hours it will begin to germinate and grow both softer and higher in protein. Along with proteins, quinoa is high in amino acid, phosphorous, magnesium, iron, and is gluten free so this is a preferred grain for vegetarian, gluten free and healthy diets.
Potatoes are native to the Andes of Chile and Peru. Potatoes were then taken to Europe and North America where they thrived. Purple potatoes are high in starch and sugars, and Yukon gold potatoes are high in sugars so that the two together on a plate make for delicious visual and flavor contrasts.
All cheese is made from some kind of milk be it cow, goat, sheep or ox. We make blue and green veined cheese by introducing flour yeast cultures to the cheese during the aging process. Because blue and green veined cheeses have bread mold/yeast added they are not gluten free. Parmesan cheese is high in umami of the five flavors hot, sour, salty, sweet and umami. Umami is in green tea, soy sauce, sea salt, red wine, various cheeses, seaweed and chocolate. It is called delicious in translation. That can be misleading, umami is what makes the mouth water and hence allowing flavors to be more acutely experienced. Parmesan, feta, burrata, fresh mozzarella and blue cheeses are favorites for salads because they truly do bring out the delicate flavors of raw and cooked ingredients in salads.
QUINOA AND PIGEON PEAS
Remember that all items except the tomato were present in my pantry, refrigerator and yard at the time of composition. This was truly hunting and gathering with what was at hand. I used hog jowl bacon for my take on instant pancetta. Curing rolled pork belly with whole allspice, whole peppercorns, sea salt, curing salt and sugar, makes pancetta. I made mine by slowly cooking hog jowl bacon with allspice, sorghum syrup, white peppercorns and coarse sea salt. Reserve the fat from the hog jowls for cooking the potatoes in the next recipe. I bought the sliced hog jowl at Publix. This kind of cut is also used in making many great Sichuan rice and ground meat dishes. The current fetishising of bacon is an interesting thing since fatty sections of pork are used wherever flavor and fat are required. I would never use bacon in a squash casserole but we Southerners certainly do use fat back in casseroles. Same for biscuits, we use lard but not bacon fat. The best and most fluffy potatoes are cooked in any kind of pork fat and
duck fat.
QUINOA (keen-wha)
2 ounces quinoa (dry weight)
1 cup water to rinse and soak the quinoa for 10 minutes
5 ounces chicken stock
1/ 4 cup yellow onion, minced
1/3 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped
1/3 teaspoon salt
2 black peppercorns, crushed
1 tablespoon butter
½ cup cooked pigeon peas (use canned, frozen or fresh, the best)
Sautee the onion on medium heat in butter and cook until they are clear. Add the quinoa and stir to coat the grains with the butter. Add the stock and all other ingredients. Bring to a boil. Turn down to low and cover. Add pigeon peas. Cook for 10 minutes. Check and stir. If stock has reduced then taste for softness and flavor. If not then stir and cook for about 3 more minutes, covered.
While the quinoa is cooking cook your hog jowl bacon in a large iron skillet
HOG JOWL “PANCETTA”
8 slices hog jowl bacon
3 allspice, whole (if no whole then pinch of ground allspice)
¼ teaspoon white pepper or 3 white peppercorns
1 tablespoon sorghum syrup or black strap molasses
1/3 teaspoon coarse sea salt
Place bacon in skillet and heat on medium heat. Add spices after it begins to sizzle. Turn and let cook until crisp, pour fat into another large iron skillet. Add sorghum to the bacon. Remove from pan and place on paper napkin to drain fat.
VINAIGRETTE
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 leaves basil
3 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon turbinado sugar
½ teaspoon yellow mustard
Whisk ingredients together before adding to dish.
Divide the quinoa and pigeon peas between two plates. Arrange in a line on the plate. Set the jowl pancetta in the middle of each line of quinoa. Drizzle the vinaigrette over each plate. Garnish with fresh edible nasturtium flowers or crisp violet petals.
ROMAINE WITH DRIED FRUITS AND WASABI-MISO VINAIGRETTE
Spicy, crunchy, fruity and sharp; how can you go wrong with this arrangement?
I used dried apricots because I had them on hand for my three salads in 30 minutes. Remember that for all of these I was racing against the clock as Bryan was coming over to photograph the plates! I always have wasabi and miso in the house because their flavors are so versatile. Do not think that the wasabi root is confined to raw fish, though surely the best place for it is with sparkling fresh wahoo we are using it for a sauce. Vinaigrette is a sauce. Miso, the product of fermented soy beans is a deep flavor that is used in dashi, soups and sauces. Almonds because they balance the crunchy aspect of this salad, and salads that have a bit of crunch just seem to taste better. I have a camellia and a rose hips tree/bush in my yard.
WASABI-MISO VINAIGRETTE
½ teaspoon wasabi powder or paste
1 teaspoon miso paste
10 leaves fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons sweet gherkin, or bread and butter pickles, minced
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
2/3 cup corn oil
Whisk wasabi, miso and corn oil to for semi thick, then add the pickle and cilantro. Slowly add the vinegar while whisking so that it thins the vinaigrette but does not separate. Chill. If it separates after you remove it from the refrigerator just shake it up or whip it in a mixing bowl. Sometimes a touch of mayonnaise or mustard will bind it together.
SALAD
2 romaine hearts, center section
10 slices dried apricot
5 rose hips, or you can use rose petals and orange zest if not available
14 almonds
3 stalks green onion
1 tomato, sliced in small cubes
Rinse romaine leaves in cold water and shake off the water. Slice in fork sized pieces. Place in large bowl. Add apricot, rose, green onion, almonds and tomato. Add 4 ounces of the vinaigrette. Divide between two plates. You can also add large croutons to this to add to the crunchy goodness.
POTATO AND APPLE PLATE
A plate of food that is both salad and starch is a visual and flavorful pleasure. Peruvian purple potatoes are a rich purple color, very starchy and filling. Yukon gold potatoes are yellowish, light and airy, and sweet. The two potatoes contrast nicely with the apple, tomato, egg and blue cheese. We are using the oil from our bacon to cook the potatoes. Cage free, organic, farm eggs really do taste better, they make better custards, aioli and cakes. Rhode Island Red hens produce an incredible egg that you may not know, but you can bet your grandparents enjoyed them. Today, this kind of egg is being reintroduced to the market and it is not just a brown egg, it is an egg from a different kind of chicken who has been fed a different kind of food and the results are recognizable. Sweet Williams were blooming around my yard so they made it to the plate!
Best way to boil an egg? For two eggs in a small pot: cover with cold water, ½ teaspoon salt and ½ ounce apple cider vinegar. Turn up to boil. When it boils, turn down to medium and cook five minutes. Remove from heat and put pot under running cold water. Do not pour out the hot water, let the cold water force it out. After the water is cool take the egg and tap it onto the sides of the pan to crush the shell but not so hard that it breaks the film around the egg white. Under the slow cold water begin peeling the shell off of the egg until all is removed.
6, 1 ounce slices purple potato
6, 1 ounce slices yukon gold potato
2 eggs, boiled, peeled and sliced
8 slices red delicious apple
8 slices tomato
4 blossoms sweet William or whatever small edible flower is close by
2 ounces blue cheese crumbles
2 ounces Mexican crema fresca
¼ teaspoon coarse sea salt
¼ teaspoon Dukes mayonnaise
Heat a large iron skillet to medium high heat with the oil from the hog jowl bacon in the pan. When the oil is 350 degrees add the potato slices one by one. Gently shake the pan after each potato slice is added. Fry 3 minutes each side. They will be light brown on the outside and cooked on the inside. Remove from heat and drain on a paper towel to remove excess oil.
To make the dressing, combine the crema fresca, mayonnaise, blue cheese, salt and pepper. Spread this over the plate.
Arrange the potatoes on the plate, blue/white/blue then apple. Arrange the slices of tomato and egg to the corner away from the potato. Sprinkle with edible flower petals.
Thank you, always love the one you’re with and have a beautiful month of May. Visit me now in our new restaurant, The Iron Grill, On Mitchell Bridge Road, where wonderful things do happen.
It was like this last night:
Coming out of the rumble
That is the cattle call of all lovers past,
Watching Drive By Truckers on late night TV
Smiling with each note, bass line and slide solo,
They are ours here in Athens, The Classic City,
They belong to Alabama, to NASCAR and Muscle Shoals,
To rock to life to Nuci’s Space the DBTs of Ruth Street,
Yeah, they belong to us all and Everyday’s a Birthday.
Southern Rock Southern Soul Southern Poems
And Southern Food, as long as it tastes good
Sounds good in these sultry Summer Days.
The World turns to the South for love and inspiration.
There’s this thing that we are here, the way
We worship June tomatoes, yellow squash,
Ripe sweet melons, banana peppers and pork bbq.
So it goes. We all have our favorites.
We all have a need for that thing that makes us smile,
From food to song to lonesome days on the hill,
There is nothing better than a moment
That goes beyond the signal of touch and grace.
Yes, with a beloved. Yes, the moment shared.
Sometimes drifting in the mystery of 3 a.m.
I hear a modern country blues coming from within,
I hear Don Chambers +Goat (a modern Doc Boggs)
Singing High Water or Friars Lantern…
I want to wake her up and start the day,
I can taste her lips on the mist,
Hear her laughter trail on the call of dawn,
But for now in the mystery hours
There is just this assurance, this way of life
That is ours, this thing that is beautiful.
There it is, shining in the gospel light of a Georgia dawn,
She, like a batch of wild sweet peas and purple violets.
All I want to so is stand with her
By the stove on a Sunday morning.
Every flower blooms. Every pan sizzles.
Every romance has a meaning.
And today, yes, these things are true.
These are the things of Southern Song and Story.
Suburban Pastorals: Poems Of Food And Love
SUBURBAN PASTORALS
poems of food and love
A DEDICATION
To the love and the beauty in a life
Devoted to making the ideal real
Through poetry, food, and philosophy,
To making the real ideal
Through a love of conversation,
Dining, and the arts.
And most of all
To the woman of ginger scented skin,
Who is forever rolling,
And evolving, who embraces
The spiritual, and the sensual,
The logical and the heart,
She who is many and is still one.
She who so lovingly shares
Her life with mine.
May we all be so blessed
As to live with this passion and design.
WHERE IS GOD IN ALL OF THIS
The moment the leaves hit the ground
And I feel the chill snap of autumn
The day that I stand in a mound
Of red, grey, orange and yellow leaves
This early night when everything
Around me begins to turn to cool
When rose bushes cling to a final flower
When my tomatoes shine more red
Than red in this lingering hour
The color rises in beloved’s smile
The grill sends smokes signals
All over the neighborhood
A mission bell rings and my wife asks
“Where is God in all of this?” Good?
And I want to say ‘in all things’
But it’s more beautiful than that,
I really believe all things are in God.
The hickory charcoals pop and glow
I lay a long rack of Ossabow pork ribs
Across the grill grates and close the lid.
And really, the best that I can do
On a day like this is cherish the questions
That flow across my wife’s beautiful lips
I look forward to looking up through
The bare trees at night and feeling as if
I could touch the harvest moon
I can’t wait to eat, relax and tell stories, drink
Real hot chocolate on the back porch at night,
To just sit around in flannel pajamas
And think how funny it is that here in Georgia
We get cold when the wind chill hits that 40.
I like that.
HEY, HOW WAS YOUR DAY
The world is new each and every day.
The way I see you changes and regenerates,
A different beauty with each movement is born,
With each smile or simple discussion you become
Something more, something greater than now.
“How was your day?” “How is the weather?”
“Did you eat?” “I thought of you today.”
All the day reaches higher, as if Santana’s
“Dance, Sister, Dance” began playing in the background,
As if every time we begin a conversation there is a song
There is a dance and then the peace of being together.
Yes, friendship and love acts this way.
Loving like this is all that I need today.
Cook, eat, talk, love, be together.
Yes, I do say yes to everything that is you, my love
CLOUDLESS MOON
Admiration and desire,
A set of figures in ceramics,
There’s a silver platter waiting
The one I never had.
And when the clock tick tocks
Like 6 or so I go into the kitchen.
There you are my garden,
My scented sunlight
And cloudless moon horizon.
Give me all the fields of bamboo
In the world, give me tulip maples
And groves of naval oranges,
They will never match this flowing
Life I feel near and in your arms,
They are so beautiful, so still,
You are so beautiful, so electric.
I stand on the porch leaning,
Singing to the dogs and the pines,
Turning to the house and singing
To you, my love, my darling
Dark eyed beloved,
I am the cloth around your shoulders,
I am the ginger in your tea,
And for me you are the promised
Silver platter, the one so many
Dream and talk about,
The one I never thought
Would be for me.
FOR JORDY MAE, FOR DAN, FOR A LIFE OF LOVE
Seasick on humidity and sticky hot winds,
Watching roses wilt beneath the unforgiving sun
I reach over to this glass; I remember a friend passed,
This tender sweet orange pekoe tea,
Yeah, there’s more than one way to beat the heat,
There is a way to make it all better.
Sipping, nodding my head to Drive By Truckers
On the stereo, singing on about Ronnie and Neal,
Singing about that light at the 40 Watt.
Looking around and back to the house,
Looking for love on a heatstroke day,
And I find it there by the counter in the kitchen
Making the salads to match all my burgers,
And her smile is like honey and smoke,
Like the steam off of ice at the top of my glass
She is cool, she is warm,
She is all woman In one beautiful frame,
In one tiny voice she is grace and love,
And me, I am her husband,
And all of this makes any day great,
All of this, even if I were alone would
Be a beautiful day, a beautiful day
To do something warm, something loving
For any one of my friends, Don, BJ, Mike or Tom,
For any day with friends is a good day,
And any day with friends, love and a smoky grill
Is a fantastic day, is almost as good
As a day out fly fishing on the sea,
Passing the time casting for snook with a beloved friend,
Fishing for that champion jack just another cast away.
And for all the friends who’ve come and gone
I raise a chicken leg and thank God for you all
For you all who are brothers in study and life,
In poetry, food and philosophy we are all one.
ABOUT SOUTHERN FOOD AND THE BLUES
Sweet Blind Lemon Jefferson sang
His Shuckin’ Sugar Blues about being
Dogged around by his bad loving baby
And he was happy shuckin sugar after she
Was gone, gone and worrying on some other river,
And he was better with his sugar,
With his sweet sugar cane cause he knew
The muddy water from which it came
And he knew the muddy water it was going to.
Mean Dock Boggs missed honey baby by his side,
He wanted pretty Polly to share long walks
And cook pork hocks when he was lonely,
All alone on that coal mining mountainside.
Son House, the man who taught the devil loving
Barefoot boy to play guitar was found frying chicken
In New York in 1963. He still had his walking shoes
But it took a while to find his blues.
His Death Letter found him drunk and hungry
Late in the yankee nights far away from 61 Hiway.
The Clarksdale man god of modern blues
Met his maker, gin poisoned, pants down
In the shadow of his crossroads after dinner
With another mans wife. Robert Johnson’s name
Falls over every song all full with fried eggs and sourwood honey,
Milking notes and words of meaning to this day.
Hobart Smith cooked chitlin’s on Sundays
After playing banjo and hill songs into the Blue Ridge dawn.
And we all know about how Southern Can Is Mine was
Every bluesman’s first commercial to buy some ham,
Or was it corn whiskey, corn bread when you’re happy,
Corn whiskey when you’re lonely,
corn whiskey when you’re dry.
And all down the line ever hungry
every day poor John Lee Hooker
With his blues is about being
hungry, horny, drunk and broke,
About always being hungry for more,
pots on, gas on high,
We are all still hungry,
even when we’re eating we’re hungry for more,
Never satisfied, never enough,
cause the food around us
Is the best we can find, grease is hot and the birds are ready,
The song is never the same, the blues just plays the game,
And me I’m a chef, all red clay, iron clad and blistered
By the roaring apple wood fires, red meat and fresh fish,
These blues are burned into my arms, these are the blues
That keep on playing, the bare boned songs from kudzu fields
And huckleberry patches, these are the songs that are ours alone,
The songs of the country, the country blues, our blues,
All hungry, horny, drunk and broke.
PREACHIN’ EATIN’ BLUES
You are what you eat eats sounds
Kinda like it’s from a hoodoo text
But it’s not. It’s that simple.
It’s that easy to follow.
Take notice of the things that your food
Is fed, be it fruit, vegetable, nut or meat
Everything needs something to survive,
Cause we take in and take out,
We have love and lost love
In the ground we cut and seed,
We return as much as we take (harvest)
We’re at the top of the bloody chain
Where you are what you eat
Is not the whole of the equation.
For a moment now, we are the thing
That consumes all things, clean things,
Earthly things, water and air things,
Take care of what we have,
Be aware and wise, dust your shoes
And sit still right here, shucking peas and corn,
Be that creature what other people wish that they were.
Brother it all begins with what you eat eats
And how you give back to the world.
Freely, happily, sharing spring lambs and hogs,
Giving back where you have to ask
Am I giving or am I taking away?
You are what you eat eats, sisters and mothers,
You are either creating or destroying,
We are what we eat eats, fathers and brothers,
We create and we give back to the world,
We are in the world and the world is all we have.
They do not know how to do right, says the Lord,
those who store up violence and robbery in their strongholds.
– Amos 3:10
–
– There are times I’ve seen more beauty and truth than allowed
And times I’ve seen more hatred and misunderstanding as well,
In food these things are settled by the taste,
But not so for hurried hearts or lives based upon the fight.
Good thing my loves are close and dear,
More alive in the home and in conversation,
Good thing. Really. Reach out, listen,
Show you care by the way you hear and the way
You care, not by the doing, but by the way,
And this is an important distinction. Really. The way.
Like the difference between butter and margarine,
Canola oil and olive oil, real corn and peanut oil,
There is a difference, and the difference is in love,
The that each good oil is used,
We really do choose butter and peanut oil
Lard and corn oil over all others, there is a reason,
And it shows, it shows in
The way we love, the way we set our table.
SQUASH CASSEROLE AND LAKE BREEZES
I remember the long ago
Of so many cherished things,
Of cook outs and barbecues,
Of morning roses and gardenia afternoons,
Walking without the balmy wind
And treading softened rocky sands
Along coastlines and river beds,
Sitting down every now and then
Just looking at the sky, breath brine and pine,
Looking at the clouds and green treetops
Thinking about the beautiful things
Like life and food and love and friends.
And I embrace this Spring feeling
With all my heart because each season
Brings me closer to my love of loves,
Crookneck squash and vidalia casseroles,
Tiny bites of peanut stuffed quail,
Blackberry preserves and White Lily biscuits,
And oh, yeah, by Lake Burton with
Family, friends and my darling wife,
Collecting long ago into today,
Placing today as the wish I wished
And holding her sweet hand
On these walks and holding her sweet
Heart inside my own Where each Spring is forever more,
Is forever more another banquet of my home.
BLUE WAVE
Blue wave water runs riverside by green flecked beaches
Where we sit in the shade eating prosciutto, melon,
Strawberries, toast and cold sweet oranges,
Not just a warm breeze, a warm Gulf breeze winnows
Over the Sea dividing fog from sand and sea foam,
So yes, all we feel is the dry morning air of vacation,
And free time alone together or time just as you and I.
What a blast, this thing that is “us”, our traveling
To the oceans of the world for our vacations,
For our time alone from everything except each other,
Each other and the cities, the seamarks, the winds,
The new, the shock of the new in food, place and life,
And here, here we are neither traveler nor tourist
Here we are a world of our own alive in this place
In love today more than ever before.
FISHING SOUTH OF THE NANTAHALA TROUT FARMS
It is Winter,
The body calls for rich and fatty foods
To fight the wet, cold season here in Georgia.
And when you check the waistline and think
About all that you have eaten through the holiday season,
Then perhaps what we crave is not what we need.
What we need is near poetic,
A long day on the rocks casting at shadows,
Popping plugs and dragging bright flies,
Pulling in a few beauties, 16 ounces of cold fury,
And the days’ take is good, it is dinner.
Fresh trout: The delicious, the pale pink and tender,
The flavor of rushing cold water down hill and pasture,
The smell of mountain laurel and tulip maple,
A slight aroma of burning oak and pecan,
Butter popping up as cornmeal dusted fillets
Bask in the fuming wafts of smoke and oil,
And the wind coming in off of War Woman ridge
As you nestle in for a meal of Chatuga River rainbow trout.
Yeah, what we need and crave, well,
What we have is a few whole rainbow and several fillets,
All about a day or so old and all ready for the pot au feu, oven and pan.
WHEW! Shake off the day dream and move back home into the kitchen,
Into the home all warm and scented with orange and honey,
Baking bread and yes,
A dinner centered round pink fleshed trout..or was it perch?
HAPPY NEW YEAR,
forget the resolutions,
forget about what you are giving up,
just love as you wish to be loved,
and may you have all the joy
in your life every day in everything you do,
let the banquets flow
for your friends and family,
share the life and live to eat,
always live to eat.
Smile, the feast of life is now.
(OH MY LOVE SHE LOVES TO EAT, she is my love wherever
I am and in winter she is beautiful beside me
as we cook as we travel as we dine and laugh.)
Love knows no bounds but for that of the plate
Where like alone on the highway at 1
When it’s all lights and then darkness
All song and then silence,
This is the way my banquet of hearts
Comes and goes, bright-shade-dawn,
A feast and a joy, a joke and a giggle,
The clink of silver to porcelain plates.
Driving, arriving, cooking and dining,
Out of travel and out of love
This is the time when all lives embrace,
When we smile just for the moment
When we feel the warmth as warmth
And nothing more,
Nothing more than a conversation
And then again something more
Something greater
Something like you and I together
Again for the seasons like those before
And those yet to become
And this is what I most adore
About December,
Knowing that again I will be,
That I will be with you and family.
AUTUMN
The leaves are slow to fall
The colors quick to change
Pumpkin pies and raspberry tarts
Fill home kitchens everywhere
It is easy to see the Autumn shine
It is easy to feel the bright breath
Of November blanket these Georgia hills,
And me, me and my beloved,
With a good hot chocolate
And turkey leg it’s easy to sleep
Through this season, easy to take
It easy when the days are so calm.
OCTOBER
October really does
Bring everything together
In my world of love, work and words.
Like the cool winds weaving
And bright leaves lingering,
My love herself just seems
Ever more beautiful,
The language and spirit
Of the table is stronger,
More flavorful, and then
I walk more briskly,
Talk smoothly of rhymes
And memorable poems,
Speak softly of dreams
And the harvest moon…
Yea, October, what a month,
What a beautiful place to be.
GO DAWGS
She is the grove and the land
The cluster of grapes upon the vine,
She is cream and star thistle honey,
She is the warmth that holds me
The smile in which I live,
But it’s football season
And the games are upon us
So “so long for now” darling,
Hello Larry Munson,
Let the games begin…
Pass the chips and chill the Dr. Pepper,
GO DAWGS!!!
SUN SHINES
Sun flows like a river into the 6 o’clock dawn,
Warm Atlantic winds course across and down
The great green Appalachians just north of here,
Who would hear us walking in the near daylight
Is it the lost hawk above, the wandering mongrel pup?
Fallen black cherry branches crumble roadside,
White peonies bloom, the smell of anise rises,
Everything looks good in the summering morning
Where long awaited rain clouds hang on the blue.
We walk and begin to sweat, we walk together
And the weather talks back, a breeze here,
A thunderclap there, and still the sun shines,
The sun always shines in August here.
SOUTHERN SUN
Hot, hot and then it’s humid, hot,
No real rain and still I’m drenched,
Standing in the kitchen chopping, boiling,
Roasting and chilling, putting a weeks
Food together so it’s all heat and eat,
Or even better grill and eat.
Outside the window a grey lawn yawns
Stretches in the breeze and goes back to sleep,
Somewhere out there is a link and a green
Just waiting for Pings and Big Bertha,
Callaway and Cobra, Odyssey putters
And me alone at dawn walking,
Smiling, turning a shoulder to the sky,
Looking out over the dale
Towards the next hole, towards the day
That opens so wide beneath the Southern Sun
In July, begs we all play just for a while,
Just for a day of golf and a laugh,
Just for today make it easy, make it charmed.
CICADA
June light lays low on the pines and maples,
Cicada buzz and grasshopper clicks,
Mockingbird whistles from beneath a holly,
High above in the branches of a water oak
The local hawk sits and watches and waits.
Yeah, it’s near dark in the suburbs,
Dog walks and lawn mowers,
Grill smoke wafts between the houses,
A neighbor leans over and adjusts a stack
Of winter wood while I keep on pruning,
Pulling weeds and talking to the day lilies,
Cutting rye grass around a stand of hosta
And wild honeysuckle. Yeah, dusk.
Thinking about recipes and new menu
Items, thinking about dinner and fishing
And yeah, thinking about everything food
As I linger in the garden, hanging out
In the yard doing a lot of nothing
That is everything to me,
Hanging in the garden the way
I’ve always done, looking, thinking,
Touching, smelling, living,
Reflecting reaching towards the future,
Reaching towards and inside
What is beautiful and what is life.
What is life? It is this, and everything more.
OASIS
Sunlight and the diamond spray of color
Rippling out from around my fly hitting the water.
I dream it’s a tuna rising up from the depths
And my skiff a sailboat on the Aegean,
The shoreline the oasis island of Limnos
And my beautiful love the ever goddess like waiting
For my return from this great adventure,
And then it hits, AWAKE! a one pound trout
On the North Chattahoochee in Helen, GA.
I am here, and it is always
So perfect and serene on any water
With any shore as long the fish are biting
And I’m not far from home.
FISH BONES
Hands black and Georgia red as I dig
Under maple mulch around the house.
Crush up the fish bones for each bush,
I think it’s ready. I think that now is the time.
Three years treating, turning, feeding
And now, yes now it looks rose ready,
Lily fresh and lemon thyme hungry,
This land is my land, my house,
My readied garden for the summer light and heat,
And I can’t wait to press the first bulbs down,
To build up the sides of John F. Kennedy rose bushes,
Lady Peace and dear Lincoln rose.
Always a spot for bird chili peppers, red serrano,
And jalapeno around the edges.
Sure, there’ll be the weeds, the fact of life, huh?
Dig dig dig, pull pull pull,
Water and preen and wait and watch,
Just like a life, just like a love building,
All gardens rise with care and a soft touch.
A NEW SEASON
The new season walks in out of winter’s shadow,
Brash and windy, commanding change,
Bold flavors and fresh ideas,
March does not speak so much as it roars,
And with this wind we cook our best dishes,
Have the most philosophical conversations,
Argue over when to plant roses and peppers,
Basil and tomatoes, and of course lilies and mint,
Finish off the last of cords of split wood
And set aside the chips for summer smoked meats,
And beloved asks about lavender, hyssop,
Angelica, gardenia (oh please can we plant
Gardenia by the walkway?) and garlic,
I say yes, this year the fence line and creek side
Will be more alive than ever,
A testament to the wealth of soil and rain
That is North Georgia in the Spring,
A living poem of love, hope and desire,
This is what a flowering garden is,
A pastoral waiting to be sung,
A beautiful cuisine reclined and patient,
Waiting, waiting to be served and adored.
SPIRIT OF THE YEAR
Spirit of the year comes about in the second month,
We find shards of the old one scattered in cluttered
Spaces around the house, some stay,
Some are shuttered or swept away,
Some are transformed and given names like
“gift”, “donation”, “save” or “another day”;
But things never wasted, trashed or stored
Come from the pantry, the oven or Frigidaire,
And those are things we cook, we make, we give
And share with each other every day, we live
With Food, Romance, Life and Home.
Gimmee warmth and a bowl of rice or noodles
Any time, gimmee cream and butter
Over diet chemicals and hydrogenated fats,
I want the touch of my love skin to skin,
The touch of my food from earth to table,
You can trash imitations and transformations,
But nothing compares to a hand held,
A house manicured to self-expression
Or a meal well made with a love well formed.
HOW THE NEW YEAR SPEAKS
The water was always thrashing,
Cracking on the rocks
And cliffs below my house,
And every now and then
A grey whale would breach,
Would blow that slow shot
Of the sea straight on up to the sun.
Time holds when this happens.
My Uncle Allan loves the water,
Fishes all day, his boat is perfect,
Pulls perch, crappie and hybrid bass
Up in all weather.
He lives the New Testament;
He breathes peace and hope,
I hang on his words like a child
To rhymes and song.
When the shrimp nets
Are pulled in on the Gulf Shores
And they cut away the turtles,
Birds and cans there is always something
That is left behind, something
Beautiful that grows to breed
And feed and replenish.
Fly fishing sunken islands
At the mouth of Sebastian River
I pause on some casts
To watch a dolphin watching me,
Checking to see when I’ve caught
A blue, redfish or snook,
Circling me the way we circle them
Waiting to be fed just the same.
We both wait and work to be fed.
A sense of something other blows
In on winter leaves, a sense
Of something other always
Rests on blue tipped waves,
And this is just what it is,
This circle, this other, this being within,
This always being as with and in,
And it is good. In all ways, it is good.
FARFALLE
A word, a home
An autumn rush of color,
Doors open, windows shine,
The noon sun warms.
A leaf, a wind;
An open hand is not a wave.
An empty kitchen
Is the loneliest room.
Rosemary, pancetta, bow tie pasta,
And the world fills up
With all these things
These foods and phrases
Of life and house.
When we call this room
Our nest our home,
Our place in the world,
It is complete
And the season awakes
To this dear moment
Of You and I
Of times remembered
And times yet to come.
HOT CHOCOLATE AND JORDY
Dark
Rich,
Sweet,
Exotic,
Creamy,
Sensual,
Mysterious,
Intoxicating
Filling me with love
With hope and expectation
Charming me in every moment.
That’s the way it is when I am with
You my Beloved, warm my life,
My best of all in anything everlasting
Ever-beautiful bride, ever my love,
Like kisses and chocolate you make
These days so cherished and bright
So complete, so much alive.
MEALS OVER MARKET
Waiting for the moment.
Waiting for the last Thursdsay.
Root cellars, garlic,
Potatoes and onions,
A turkey curing in
The darkened pantry
Where we hang
Mystery foods to season
And to age.
That was yesteryear.
Today it’s the market
The international store,
The local grocer
Who can get it all in
And who’ll remember
Your name weeks away.
Ask food. Talk food.
Learn the ways of the earth
Beneath our beautiful Georgia sun.
There are no state or county
Lines, only wide open
Lands of food and love
In this America
In this South
On our own beloved
Thanksgiving day.
BACKYARD BY THE BAMBOO
She is every flower, aroma
And scent of this world,
She brings grape clusters,
Chocolates, peppers,
Fresh shrimp and scallops.
And I wait outside
By the Rose of Sharon
And dwarf Magnolia,
Smiling, happy the man
With his Brinkmann grill,
With alder and cherry wood
Smoking, heating steel,
Sending rich earth flavors
Up and into these sweet
Moments of food and life,
Food and life in this backyard
With my beloved and the light of day.
SANTEE RIVER AT DAWN
Down beneath the parts of the city
There is a path that leads to the sea
That weaves between
High marsh grass and gray concrete,
Where snook and perch together chase
Stone flies, shrimp and sun light.
To me now, in this moment here
This little walkway marks the strand
Separating the designs of our life
And the architecture of this wild life,
This wild life that feeds us all
That makes this world a better place.
Yeah, a small stretch of dry earth
Above the water, where I can hear
The waves, cars, cattle in the fields,
My own lowing footsteps,
And what seems to be the marshes
Breathing, the whispers of this
Challenging estuary demanding
It be seen and heard as it’s own self
And not just a place beneath the city.
ITALIAN FIRE IN THE SOUTHEAST
Tree frogs, crickets and lunar moths,
Citronella incense and jasmine flowers,
Orange and lime peels smoking away
On bright burning coconut shells,
A small flame shoots up,
Snaps and scores the red bell peppers.
In the easement a bobwhite quail calls
And is answered by an owl low in oak branches.
What a night, what a backyard,
What a life this is in early June
When all the cares are for what
To eat and when to sleep
And if all the roses will bloom this year,
And if my love will like this meal
I just burned to a black crisp, burned
Because I was lost in the mists of twilight
Dreaming, dreaming summer away.
MAY FUMES
Aromatic, mist driven and steamy on the horizon,
A glimpse of empires the color of hazel and garnet,
The wind washes over magnolia leaves,
Winds bring in the smell of crushed honeycombs.
Wispy warm the scent of May in the suburbs
The way it fills with cut grass and spring onions,
How here by a stack of cut poplar it’s clover
That catches the best of the earth at dusk,
This waxing afternoon of a thousand colors
Carries images of hands reaching towards sunset,
Fireflies skitter in the air around my beloved yard,
The dogs bark and run home to their own dinner,
And me, I turn and bid good day to this perfect
Melding of the senses, to this moment in life
Where all things are felt, and to feel is so good,
To feel this beautiful land of ours is so very, very good.
EATING MUSCADINES
And I move my fingers across a map of the world,
Across gardens and fields, great oceans and mountains,
Through city and country, through gates and doorways,
And then I stopped at this most beautiful place,
And there it was, one Cherokee rose, a live oak rising,
TVA dams and reservoir lakes full with promises
And large mouth bass, thrasher and quail in the meadows.
The brown Chattahoochee and deep Savannah River,
The boom and roar of 1-85, the languid turns of 441
Where azaleas line side yards and creeks from near
Lake Oconee to far Lake Burton and I turn away
To heavy driven roads ruled by possums
And swarms of honey bees, 78, 15, I-95,
And I called it Heaven and I called it home,
This magnificent vineyard of life and love,
This sweet Georgia, old and grown,
And yet new in every way it grows, expands
Into always something more, becoming
Better every day this bright field of the South.
TO PUT THE HEART TO
Green chilies and sweet peppers burning
In the blue gas flame on the stove in winter;
Breathe, breathe, it’s so thick and rich
In here today, and you know, I rushed home.
I rushed home from work today…with fresh herbs,
Papaya and sweet pepper, tangerines and clove…
A dozen oysters and trout caviar.
And there you were as tired as I was.
And for you this is yours.
Sit back and relax, let this be your air,
Your silence, your laugh, and your meal.
Whatever it takes, tonight this life is all on me.
VALENTINE 2006
Together in the cold we walk
The starry suburban street.
By a mailbox at dusk we kiss.
We hold hands to keep warm.
As we trade jests and conversation
I watch the fog puff away from your lips,
It floats into the hungry night.
Your apple cheeks glow,
You are beautiful and we kiss.
In our after dinner stroll
We gush like teenagers,
And when we reach our door
I stop, hold you, pull you close,
And again we kiss.
Feels like love every time
I’m close to you,
And it’s good enough for me
In any time of night or day
To say I am yours and you are mine,
That yes always I am here for you.
HEARTH AND HOME SO WARM TOGETHER
Toffee, the Buddha souled Golden Retriever,
She stands and does an easy wave of a walk
With her tail barely swishing back and forth,
She smiles and nuzzles, cajoles for treats,
And in opposite boy-like fever the black Lab Freddie
With open mouth in constant laugh, the trickster,
He sits up on the couch and pretends to be human,
Moves his paws like he’s talking, gesturing towards
The old and irritated house cat Roscoe
And tries to tease him to come a little closer.
And here it is, my wife and I together in the holidays
Like a Mr. and Mrs. St. Francis Of Assisi
Loving all life here equal and the same,
Loving as love is in this greatest of seasons,
Wishing each other and all the sweetest blessings
The blessings of home, trust and freedom,
The blessings of a green world in which to live
Where the Life shared is the life cherished.
So as New Year’s and Old Year’s come together,
I know that Peace lives in many hearts as one
And let’s hope the next year is better than the last
That we learn from all things to love the lesser as the greatest,
And that we learn to live harmless with the world around us
As in this moment by the shimmering tree,
With my Beloved and the animals in this last of 2005.
FAMILY MEAL
Turn off the phones and shutter the TV,
Open the doors and let autumn in,
Gather to the table your love and smiles,
Bring bread and fruit and sweetened butter,
Sharpen the knives and polish the silver,
Check and check again the oven light.
Is the bird too brown? Are the juices clear?
Hold high your glasses for family brought near,
These are the days we live to remember,
To give thanks for shelter, food and friends,
To praise this world we all do share,
To stand steady together in each passing year
And look forward to more, and more and more
JORDAN AT NIGHT, WITH LOVE
The golden coin of the Rubaiyat,
It spins and spins throughout
The dawn and day and dusk,
And yet at night it stops and shines,
One light upon the table,
One flower on the mantle…
Cluttered, empty plates,
A smoldering candle smokes and sputters,
And I start humming the dance
From Cavelaria Rusticana,
Swaying, holding, a little waltz
Together in the kitchen at night,
And we shine back into the coin,
Giving definition, giving heart
To the great feast of today, and tomorrow.
SUMMER INTO FALL
I have lived by the great vineyards of the West,
Dined beneath the magnolia and madrone
With master vintners and visiting dilettantes,
Roasted salmon and abalone on coconut hulls
Beneath the cold pacific night on the cold Pacific shore,
Travelled the rolling hills of Mendocino and Sonoma,
Searched for that perfect bottle, the perfect fruit,
The fattest lamb and sweetest tomato,
And all the time these roads and beaches
Led me right back here, here to Georgia
Where the hills rise greener than fescue or jade,
And the seasons fold over into each other
With their own songs of summer and fall,
With their own way of raising healthy crops
To a perfect way of sunny, humid Southern being,
Where we have our own Chateau Elan,
Artisan farmers and organic ranchers,
Here in the South we have a greatness all our own
That reaches out from Northeast Georgia
To the Nantahalas and Carolina seashores,
Down to Savannah and pine kissed Macon,
Yes here in the Southeast where our
Squash and peaches grow stronger and sweeter,
Where the hot lakes and streams are full
With bass, crappie and catfish,
Where the rushing swarms of stone flies
On the Sogue & Altamaha Rivers taunt trout and angler,
This is Georgia in the turn of seasons.
This is Georgia just before the first kick-off,
Right before the stadiums fill and football
Rules the land, this is Georgia the Peach,
The farmed and harvested,
The Southeast alive with food and love,
This is the turning of the seasons.
This is a way of life.
ALWAYS THERE
Together in a rocking chair
On a porch at sunrise,
Watching moths and fireflies
Lay down to sleep,
Singing birthday songs
To the God unseen inside
The orange she holds and smells.
And so he watches her,
Watches the colors change,
Her bare feet curling, pushing,
Rocking their lives into the day.
He reaches over to hold
Her hand, tells of a walk
Through lemon groves
And a white sand road,
Where by the sea he traveled,
In awe, in search,
Down shore to a store
Where all the great mysteries
Of kites and wind,
Of ginger and coconuts,
Of mango and gin
Joined together at the whim
Of an old shopkeeper.
This day, charmed and warm,
So together, so yearning,
Sitting and talking, rocking,
And they felt the lure,
They felt the movement
Of voices adored, of home
And late meals….of life and love.
Hours later, still hungry,
Still rocking and holding hands,
Still singing to the God
In oranges and Chinese kites,
Still dreaming of the path to the store
That’s always there…
A man and his love, she and he,
Always waiting on another shore.
Always here, always there,
Always together where
The seas meet the sun.
SUMMER RAIN
Rain? Are you touching me now?
I thought I felt rain on my shoulder.
The smell of mushrooms bursting,
Thin-skinned puffballs blowing
Grey smoke in the dry afternoon.
The acrid smell of Comet cleanser and baking soda.
She promises rain, but tastes like perspiration.
I kissed her fingers. Khaki tan and soft.
And it seemed the sun exploded in my eyes.
Turn this over in your heart she says,
And she says there is no price on dusk today.
I tease each lowering cloud with lidded glances
And an Elvis Presley snarl.
Brown needles drop off the sergeant juniper.
Starving bonsai: what is your peace now?
Giving up, I don’t even cut back the English ivy anymore.
And the arid heat is murder here, here on
The banks of the slow Oconee,
Here we all sing “summertime….”
She cat licks my left ear lobe.
Breathes into my translucent Irish skin.
And the vibrations curl, shimmy and shag.
Are you touching me now?
And the cumulus thunder shouts,
Pregnant black clouds roll over and foal.
And suddenly, as parched as I was one second before,
Here I am, drenched and laughing,
Finally, finally my Georgia sky became itself again,
And the summer rainstorms came as promised.
She holds me close, asks if I can smell the grass
Turning green again, if I can feel the branches
Gathering up all the water they can….
And I just say yes, yes I can.
PHILOSOPHER MOTHER
Something I learned from my wonderful Mother:
Thinking and believing are not the same.
Cause when I think I’ll cook and I believe I’ll cook
Occur at different times
Then the oddest of meals falls out of the kitchen.
But when I live with both as one
Then what becomes
Is the greatest of things,
And that is what the good cook lives for,
Greatness on the plate and a smile on the face,
Where love is in the kitchen and everywhere.
CHANGE AND FLUX, OR NOT
This month between the seasons,
This spread of days whose meaning is in the flower
The change and flux,
This wild hunt through
Days and nights of warm cool warm
Where we prosper from the cold months of the sea
And the fresh meats of a final frost,
Where we take on the last of the Indian Rivers orange harvest,
And turn to welcome the first tomatoes and squash blossoms,
The bright green, the mango, and the rose red flowers
Of this new Spring into Summer. Yes, this is April,
The swaying good bye to our long nights,
And a graceful hello to fertile days
Of the South that reach two seasons beyond,
Bountiful seasons that stroll, languid and at peace
Walking into the promised warmth of our ancestral kitchens.
Yeah, April, nothing but good, and always exciting.
IN EVERY DAY, A VALENTINE
Behind the hedges in the backyard
We kissed.
In the kitchen by the stove we kissed.
After work in the grocery store
We lingered by the boxes
Of ripening guava.
Thick tropical scent griped us,
And yes, we kissed.
It seemed the fruit was turning to wine.
I remember every place we’ve been
By the times we touched,
By the love when you pressed your
Hand into mine,
By the meals we shared,
By the idle moments alone.
The months and years fade
When we are together.
It’s too sweet, I know,
But I really don’t care
Life tastes better with this to share:
A simple kiss for you my love.
FROM SMALL BEAUTIES GREAT LOVE EVOLVES
And it seemed dinner would take forever before
Our time together alone on a stroll in the lowering night.
To walk warm beside you through the quiet neighborhood,
Where night winds bristle and crack in the bare trees,
Where long gone finches perch with the owl and cardinal,
Watching the grounds for sign of stray seed and beetle.
These winter nights, these unbelievably bright shining stars
Light our way along the street behind our too fat golden retriever,
And yeah, we feel a little hefty ourselves after this night’s repast,
But what the heck, it’s winter and it’s Georgia,
And we are alive calling out to our small world our joy,
And what could be better than this? A full stomach,
You, me, the dog and the crystal Southern evening
Where all seems right and fine just for you and I.
A CHRISTMAS SPIRIT
Early evening blankets the winter sky
Of fog brightened stars and shadowy trees,
Chairs creak and squeak as we move around,
Sharing sweet coffee, chocolates and ripe strawberries.
An Irish Christmas song dances from the stereo,
It flows and rises, settles into the room
Like a family member returned from long ago.
It’s so peaceful here, after the feast,
Relaxed and easy, where the working world
Slips away and it’s just us, the gentle night,
The fire, the food, feeling each other feeling,
Sharing our memories of today
As well as our histories yet to be.
The airs of this season are divine.
So here we are, vibrant and crisp
In the tide before the New Year
And I couldn’t ask for better,
Nothing less and nothing more
Than that this moment be for all humankind.
WAITING, COOKING
A break, a moment,
A few minutes lost,
Risotto bubbling in broth and butter,
A car door slams,
Steel hinges squeak,
Foot falls on the mat across the living room,
Crushed bay and cilantro in my palm,
Water glass trembles,
And there she was, my love
A sudden kiss of iris and clove.
Funny how nervous,
The ceremony of unpacking,
Turning and smelling, pushing and shaking,
Praying the pork loin, the pumpkin and,
The basil are all unblemished,
And most of all,
That the meal is as perfect
As the moment she walked in.
DR. PEPPER AND COUNTRY RIBS
I’ve traveled the long roads of this world and this life,
Walked the woods in seven states and fished the purest waters,
By car, alone, I’ve seen the land from top to bottom
From east to west, and been amazed by
Just how beautiful America can be.
I’ve served royalty and presidents, friends and family,
Dined with peoples of all nations,
Cooked in every imagined situation (and shied away from some),
But nothing’s better than being here, here on the ground of my relations,
Here in the sweet North Georgia airs, with my love and my friends,
Here where life means more than a moment, here where life is everything,
So with a Dr. Pepper toast and swinging rib
Here’s to you and all that follows,
Here’s to the life of taste and flavor
To you, to me, and all you know:
Happy Cooking,
may the great angels and saints of the South look after you all.
GRILLING MY LIFE AWAY
Sometimes a warm summer night is all we need
To see how beloved this Southern life can be,
For me it’s how I cherish, how I care and prepare,
For others it’s just the way the day crawls by,
How we sit and chat and watch the flowers in the breeze,
And any way you slice it there’s no better way to live
Than passing the time on a sun porch in June,
It’s one of those things my Mother taught us all,
To love the life we live and to share this love with everyone.
And if you don’t believe, well, gather round the grill
And start talking about the world,
Pour a tall glass of sweet orange pekoe tea,
And tell me, can you feel the urge to tell history and myth?
Can you feel the desire to hold your loved one?
Can you tell her she is beautiful in the glow
Of a hickory smoke fire at sunset?
OPEN AFTER ALL
There is no one flag,
Cuisine or Oz wizard
To show the heart
And mind within,
But there is this you
To whom I open
Like morning glories to the sun.
I will always be there,
At the end of the day,
And throughout the night:
If not beside you
Within you as thought,
As spirit.
TELLING TALES
Sunday, feasting on the powers of Georgia barbecue,
Reveling in the glory of a lakeside fish fry,
Small talk, a little bit of Hegel, touch of Grizzard,
Buckets of sweet tea, a bushel of lemons,
Bit of a fight over the better voice,
Haggard or Yoakum, nobody won.
They do sound great on a Sunday afternoon
With a plate of striped bass and yellow perch,
Sliced pork shoulder and crisp cole slaw.
Haggard reminds me of onion hush puppies,
And Yoakum, he’s like a hot sauce and bbq.
My mother finally tells the story about
My grandfather during the Great Depression.
He was arrested jumping the Southern Pacific train
Coming into Tucker, when it slowed down
He tossed sacks of corn and flour
In the woods outside Cofer Brothers lumber yard.
New to me, and I loved it,
The air of a just crime, my Papaw a renegade.
I remember his kindness and his jokes,
The tipped Fedora and Lucky Strike cigarettes,
Something of a rascal, a colorful guy,
He taught me how to drink coffee.
I still think about him when I pour in the milk.
He taught me that all food was good.
Odd, no matter how cool, or how wayward
I’ve ever been I’ve never been so brave,
Or so desperate as to jump a train
And steal food for my family.
And the barbecue tastes even better now,
I have something more to relish,
Something more about my forefathers
To season this hungry history with,
Something more to be thankful for
In this land of life and promise.
IT WAS COLD BEFORE YOU
Looking up into what was October
when the frosted winds came,
and November stepped across the river.
Inside, the house grew frigid
in it’s emptiness.
Then there you were,
as if with me for all time,
beside me here in the living room,
open arms wide in the quilted easy chair,
yes, there you were,
shining like a forever summer.
My warm love,
my smile in darkness.
Today I was up early,
rubbing the Laughing Buddha
on his lucky little belly,
thinking and thankful,
I know no matter what
there are those few things
that are so good, so giving,
even in times that say
compassion is a joke,
and peace of heart is a myth,
and I think, yeah,
sometimes the love stories
must be lived,
like the one that says that I am
glad I’m living this life of mine.
A CHROME KEY
Looking at the lone house key on the mantle,
touching to maybe feel her warmth in the metal,
and I stand there by the heater,
holding this memento of her in my home,
of how she would fumble, push it into the lock
and open the door to my house and life.
Entering the calm, burgundy living room,
and she calls out to the cat,
“Roast Beef! come out come out you dirty cat!”
And she would start laughing at how she
could always surprise the not so regal cat of the house.
Or perhaps sneaking in, tip toe up behind me
as I worked at my desk, at my words and recipes.
Slowly, slinking, and then a shout “Heeeyyy!!”
and always I would jump,
and always I would turn and smile,
happy in the moments she made each hello
a gift of fascination, an event of joy.
And the key has no holder now, no soft hand,
no warm pockets to keep it company,
just the mantle, a collection of Bataille,
a black horse from my childhood and a string
of golden, shimmery, decorative stars.
Squeeze, lift it to the light, peek through
the ring hole at a photograph of her.
Tell myself, it’s ok, don’t worry, soon, soon,
thirty days away before she prances
into this dark study again,
thirty days away before the sun will shine
again in my winter without her,
and oddly, religiously, I set the key right
back where she left it, there above the heater,
next to a candle and a racing plastic stallion,
here in this house where there is so much more
to the world when she is in it.
ZEN GIRL
Late arrival,
window shakes as the front door slams,
covers pull up against the coming light,
then a sweet voice flows across the dust…
and in your little room you squint and shake,
see a world alive with breath and whispers,
there’s a woman there you know you love…
yeah, she’s the spice of life.
Like a tickle in your ear:
hello? hello?
And she says:
No lucky charm bounces on my chest,
no crucifix, no ankh or star,
just a flash of red, a hearts fire contained
SNOW LOVE
And the snow left the sky for a while,
hung around the yard looking all cool and white,
with ripples and dimples and ridges and clumps,
so perfect seeming at dawn and at dusk,
just like the bright green lawns of summer.
Today I am thankful to be alive,
to feel the cold, to taste the snow,
to look beside me and see you there.
BIG BAMBOO AND BOILING WATER, THIS IS THE WAY WE STEAM
BIG BAMBOO AND A BOILING POT OF WATER:
PURE AND CLEAN WE ARE COOKING WITH STEAM
Steam is a beautiful thing, be it in nature with Yellowstone National Park or the deep sea steam volcanoes; for automobiles and old locomotive engines; and then in the kitchen on the stove or as a steam table. In the case of cooking, steam is the vaporized water from boiling water. The water can be seasoned with aromatic herbs or just plain water, either way the cooking takes place by the heated water molecules forced up through the lidded bamboo or metal basket. There are also steam ovens and steam/radiant heat combo ovens. If you have ever had a steam burn you know that this is one hot source of heat. Steam cooks, and it cooks fast. Today we are cooking in bamboo steamers. Steam cooking is mostly associated with rice, couscous, dim sum dishes and Pan Asian cooking in particular. All regions of the world have dishes cooked with steam. The best for me though are those of Southeast Asia and Filipino cooking.
We will cook the classic Thai dish called haw mok. Haw mok is pompano, perch or a jack fish ground with red curry and coconut, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed. An array of vegetables and tofu steamed with basil and leeks. Chicken breast with mint, garlic and apples, steamed with couscous. We are cooking from the heartlands of Thailand, Japan and the Near East. This is comfort food at its finest. These dishes are easy, healthy, rich and delicious. OK, the haw mok has a few steps but it is very rewarding and joyous dining. Steam is one of the oldest cooking methods dating back to hot stones and water by thermal springs. But it is difficult to date, which came first fire or hot rock cooking. Cooks, we manipulate heat for hot cooking, and acids to alkaline in cold cooking. This is what we have always done, manipulate the structure of raw foods into an end result that maintains life and gives us pleasure. Live to eat.
First the nature stuff: steam is when water passes 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Steam does not bounce the food around or shake it or agitate it. Steam envelops and sinks into the food and this means that no nutrients are lost because the steam seals in the food. Since the food is not shaken around it does not break apart, and so in that it is very intense steam is also gentle. Steaming is a very fast way to cook with the foods being ready in 12 to 15 minutes. One of my Western style favorite ways of steam cooking is En papillote, “in paper”. This way of cooking fish is done by lining baking paper with oil and wine and placing the fish and vegetables in the middle and rolling it into a tightly closed semi circle. Bake it at 450~ for 15 minutes. Carefully cut open the paper so that the steam does not burn you, and slide the fish out onto a plate. Always be careful when cooking with steam. It is very easy to burn yourself. Use gloves or tongs.
Steam cooking basics: cut all the ingredients to roughly the same size so that they cook in the same amount of time. Do not let the food touch the water. Leave a bit of space between the ingredients so that the steam circulates. Gradually add water to the pot as it boils away so that you maintain balanced heat.
When using a two layer steamer have the meat/protein in the bottom tier since it takes longer to cook that vegetables or couscous, and so that the meat does not drip down onto the vegetables hence maintaining the integrity of flavors inherent to meats/proteins and vegetables. Top layer takes longer to cook so allow extra time. Do not take the lid off of the top before the foods have cooked because that releases the steam heat, which means that the continuous cooking cycle is broken and the food will take longer to cook. Marinade your seafood or fowl before steaming to add extra flavor into the protein. As an example of nutrition, steam removes 40% of vitamin C whereas boiling/poaching cooking removes 70%. That’s the nutrition part, now to the fun part, the cooking!
I have a big cone shaped hat bamboo steamer and stainless “vase” for steaming Thai sticky rice; two, two tiered medium bamboo; one, small single layer bamboo and metal pans and racks for steaming. Steam cooking really is hard to match when it comes to nutritious, fast, colorful, clean cooking.
Methods of cooking are steam, blanch, boil, broil, roast, braise, sear, sauté, wok stir fry, deep fry, pan fry, grill, smoke, cold smoke, denaturing and curing. And each of these methods has their own history and legend. I find it to be very fun to research, study and apply each method. They are all good. They all produce great flavors and textures.
All of the following recipes take 15 minutes except for the rice and that is 30 minutes. Bring the water to a boil and then turn it down to medium high heat, not boiling, just under at about 190 degrees Fahrenheit, steaming. Do not let the water boil up into the basket or it will just boil, and that is another thing altogether. Do not let the water boil away and ruin your stainless cookware. Keep it covered the whole time. Let the food rest in the covered basket for five minutes before serving.
STICKY RICE
First and foremost cook the rice. Talk does not cook rice. Heat cooks rice. Thai sticky rice is derived from a particular kind of glutinous rice. Rice cakes are made from glutinous rice. You can use any kind of bamboo steamer basket for sticky rice. But we are staying with the history here so use the cone shaped basket.
Soak 1 cup of sticky rice in water for 2 hours. Strain the water off of the rice. Bring the water in the vase to a boil and put the basket over it and then cover the basket with a metal lid. Turn the heat to medium high and cook for 30 minutes. Rice. You have now cooked sticky rice. This is a side dish or can be made into cake shapes and grilled or baked, they are good cold as well.
HAW MOK
This is a dish that brought me to near tears one foggy July night in San Francisco. It was at the Thai Café on Geary Boulevard. Haw mok is made from pulverized pompano, pomfrit, trevally jack, ono/wahoo or cobia. It is blended into a slight paste with red curry and then made into a fish shape, folded into a banana leaf and then steamed. Banana leaves can be purchased at any Latin Mercado in the frozen section. Some recipes for haw mok call for kaffir lime leaves, and if you have access to these wonderfully aromatic leaves then include them in the recipe. Also, some will fold the banana leaf into a cup for easy eating, and you can do this, but for the first attempt at this classic World dish follow the recipe here.
Banana leaves can be found in international farmer’s markets where Latin and Pan Asian produce is sold. Now, Thailand/Siam was and is an international marketplace. Thailand is where several different worlds of Asia and Europe intersect by geography and by trade routes. Thai food is World food. All to often no two recipes are the same and it is hard to find that perfect pad thai or sticky rice, and the reason is because each Thai chef and Mother! has a different approach to the dish depending on the season, the weather, their mood, and this is because the cuisine of Thailand is organic and ever changing. Thai cuisine is complex, there are techniques that require a lot of concentration and care, and it shows. The complexity of this World cuisine, Thai cuisine, is a very beautiful thing.
Recipes are for two people
RED CURRY PASTE
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon roasted red pepper
1/2 teaspoon toasted Sichuan peppercorns, crushed
½ teaspoon toasted coriander
1 teaspoon ginger, grated
4 tablespoons thick coconut milk
2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped, stems and leaves
1 teaspoon Three Crabs fish sauce (or ½ teaspoon anchovy paste)
1 teaspoon peanut oil
Combine ingredients and mash into a paste in a food processor or mortar and pestle. Heat a wok or fry pan on high heat with the peanut oil. Add the paste and cook for three minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and let stand at room temperature.
16 ounces fish fillet, dice
1 egg white
½ teaspoon pink sea salt
1/3 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon unrefined cane sugar
Combine ingredients in food processor. Pulse for 10 seconds and let rest for 5 seconds. Do this five times. The fish should be fluffy and smooth. IF not then continue the process until it is smooth.
Spread plastic wrap onto a flat surface and mix the curry paste and fish paste together the way you would fold biscuit dough. Shape into football or fish shape.
Warm the banana leaf in a 200 degree oven so that it is just a bit soft, about 4 minutes. Take it out of the oven and lay out on a smooth surface. Slice two thin string sized strips from end to end, about 32 inches long. Cut two 10 X 10 X 10 inch triangles. Put one fish patty in the middle of each banana leaf. Fold over into another triangle. Tie each triangle up with your “strings”.
Place your fish on the bottom part of the steamer basket with at least one inch of space between the banana fish packets. Cover with the bamboo lid. Boil the water. Turn down to medium high and add a little more water to replace what steams away as it cooks. Steam for 20 minutes. Do not touch. Do not move the lid.
After 20 minutes remove the fish packs from the steamer baskets and set on serving trays. Sides of sticky rice and pickled vegetables is perfect with haw mok, Cut the banana leaf open and slide the fish off the leaf and onto the plate.
Haw mok can be made ahead of time and then steamed when you are ready to eat.
TOFU WITH VEGETABLES AND LEEKS
Tofu is made from soybeans. It is a soy protein. We cook tofu the way that we would cook an egg, a chicken breast, a custard or even as a mousse. In Hong Kong cuisine there is a tofu dessert that is made with silken soft tofu by simmering it in palm sugar and coconut water in an oak cask. It is delicious, comforting and light. Tofu dishes do tend to be rather heavy because firm tofu is so rich. After all, tofu is a meat substitute.
Steaming extra firm tofu and vegetables is a nice fast and healthy, yet filling meal. Cook it for 15 minutes and eat.
1 pound extra firm tofu, cut in one inch cubes
2 leeks, sliced from the root to the light green part
of the leaf, soak in cold water and rinse twice to remove dirt
1/3 cup broccoli crowns
1/3 cup cauliflower, small bunches/crowns
1/3 cup purple potato/purple yam, thin sliced
10 basil leaves
1 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon grated ginger or galanga
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 cloves garlic or garlic chives, sliced thin
Arrange the tofu, vegetables and potato in the steamer basket. Sprinkle with soy sauce, basil, ginger and garlic. Cover it all with the sliced leeks. Place bamboo steamer over the water in the pot and turn heat on high. When it comes to a boil turn it down to medium high and let cook for 15 minutes. Turn heat off.
Divide the ingredients between two plates (or four small plates). Very good cool weather meal or even after a high energy day outside. This is one big hearty meal. Steaming can be healthy, filling and fast.
CHICKEN AND COUS COUS
Chicken breast with mint, garlic and apples, steamed with couscous. Just writing this one makes me hungry! Again, here is an easy dish that takes no time at all to prepare. Clean up is always just a hot water rinse away. What is left to do after a bamboo steamer dinner? Pour out the water and wash the pot. Rinse the bamboo with hot water and mild soap. Drain and rub the steamer with light cooking oil to keep the bamboo from cracking.
Couscous is a kind of pasta. It is made with crushed semolina flour and water. It is in small grains that resemble a seed. Couscous is often mistakenly thought of as a grain. It is a North African and Near East pasta that is good as a dessert with milk and dried fruits and nuts or as a tagine (an upside down looking cone that is the dome for cooking in a pan over open fires) cooking ingredient, and for us as a bountiful ingredient with a bright and Spring enhancing dish.
9 ounces chicken breast, diced
4 ounces green beans
10 leaves mint
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1 apple, diced (Fuji or lady gala)
1 lemon, juiced
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
½ cup couscous
1 tablespoon rotelle (tomato and jalapeno)
Soak the couscous in a cup of hot water for five minutes. Remove and rinse. Mix with the rotelle. Place cheesecloth down on the steamer basket and then the couscous on the cheesecloth. In the other tier arrange the rest of the ingredients, sprinkle with lemon juice, salt pepper and vinegar. Set the chicken in the bottom tier and the couscous in the top. Cover and steam for 15 minutes. Turn off and let it sit there for five more minutes.
Arrange the pasta on two plates and then the apple chicken over the top of the couscous. Garnish with seasonal fruit.
I hope you enjoyed these easy, except for the haw mok, meals. Bamboo, water and heat. I like that, bamboo, water and heat is all you need to make the best of a lazy night at home.
Belle of the South
I saw her giggle at Elvis Presley,
Heard her laugh at the mention of Howard Hughes,
And I could swear I saw her tremble
When I joked about Robert Mitchum in Thunder Road.
There are photos of her as a bobby sockser
On her Shwinn bicycle near Charleston harbor.
This teenaged Tucker country princess,
She is more at home here in our Georgia.
There’s not one hairdo duplicated in any photos,
At least none of which she is willing to share!
Belle of the South and Woman of the House,
She can scare the whiskers off a catfish
And charm them back on as fast as that.
In thick and thin she is clear and true,
Wherever she stands there is love,
This Belle of the South has traveled the World
And for a while she was the Belle of the East
When she lived in far Calcutta.
When she married
(oh wow how she loves to marry!)
I saw her smiling,
Like a Kennedy Rose in full daylight,
Like magnolia blossoms after the rain,
She is all things bright and loving,
She is the Mother lion on Discovery Channel,
She is the Belle of The South,
And always she is Mother,
There is no other name.
She has more Southern stories
Than Stone Mountain has granite,
And there is a moral to every tale.
She has more friends, churches and charities
Than children and grand children,
So we have to make appointments
Just to have an evening alone with her.
We all claim her as our own,
This Belle of the Cofer/England Tucker Clan,
She is everything a Belle should be and more.
Wisdom, strength, devotion and power.
This is what a true Southern woman is,
The Belle and the Flower,
The Belle and the Mother.
She is ours.
No longer with East West Bistro
I am no longer involved with The East West Bistro in Athens, GA.
This was my beloved from 1995 to 2010. All things have a beginning, an ending and then appear again in another shape and way, and so it is for the restaurant business where things come and go in flash and frenzy.
Soon there will be a new place for the marriage of the foods of the Mediterranean and the ever so Near East…soon…and until then there will be even better dishes developed here to share…soon…
POMEGRANATE IN THE HOUSE IS VERY NICE (food, poetry)
POMEGRANATE IN THE HOUSE IS VERY NICE
Of the Seven Holy Species of plant pomegranate is the crown, the fertile one, the mystery, it is also one of the fruits of the Garden of Eden. The Seven Species indicates the plants given to ancient Israel. They are named in the Old Testament. They are: 1) Wheat, 2) Barley, 3) Grapes, 4) Figs, 5) Pomegranates, 6) Olives, 7) Date Honey or Dates. It is easy to see why these fruits and seeds are sacred species in Judaism, Christianity and Islam, as they are staples in the world of flora that provide us with life and health. The pomegranate is symbolic of the 613 points in the Torah section of the Old Testament since it was believed the fruit bore 613 seeds. Solomon designed his crown based upon the bottom crown of the pomegranate. It is a shrub and can have as many as 40 or more fruit at at time during the growing season.
We see these Seven appearing throughout literature as being full of symbolic meaning in all of the ancient religions and iconography. We are exploring the pomegranate as our sole seed for Winter. It was the four pomegranate seeds Persephone consumed at the end of her stay with Hades in the underworld that brought about the Winter season while her mother, Demeter (Greek goddess of agriculture/wheat), mourned her absence.
The pomegranate is native to Persia and the Near East. It was planted along the Silk Road and has flourished in dry, hot growing regions all over the world including California and Arizona. The name of the pomegranate has significance also in war. The suffx ‘granate’ became the name of the Moor city in Spain, Granada. The grenade derived it’s name because the shape was like that of a pomegranate. For all things beautiful there is an opposite, and so for the pomegranate. We have sour syrup and sweet syrup, molasses and dried seeds (in curry), we have fun sweet eating seeds in November and sour ones for sauces in September and early October.
For we of the Southeast the pomegranate is best in November, December and January. It was a treat for us when we were children. My Mother called them “Plum Grannies” because it was just too much trouble to get pomegranate out of the mouths of Georgia native youngin’s and too easy to get the sweet seeds in. All it took was a bowl of cold water to separate the seeds from the pulp and a handful of napkins to separate the red from our hands. We were happy, still are when this fruit is at it’s sweetest.
The cocktail syrup, grenadine, is based upon the sweet pomegranate juice. We will be using a combination of pomegranate juice, grenadine, molasses, date palm sugar and red wine to make a kind of pomegranate molasses for pork and fish. The seeds are remarkable when sautéed with turkey breast steaks or chicken breasts. A sweet and salty spinach salad becomes a emblematic starter to any December holiday meal when the dressing contains pomegranate and bacon. I have had Turkish pomegranate syrup that was as thick as honey and deeply flavorful with tannins and sweet molasses as the same time; and then with that particular pomegranate thing that is between cranberries and scuppernongs.
They will sweeten in storage in the dry lower part of your refrigerator; keep the temperature between 32 and 42 degrees. If kept in your pantry at regular household temperatures between 65 and 72 degrees then they will keep for two months. Slightly score the outer skin of the fruit with a knife. Break it open over a bowl of cold water. Gently push the seeds off of the pulp. The pulp will rise and the seeds sink. They varieties (over 60) of pomegranate go from pale white sour seeds to super juicy sweet red seeds. We are most familiar with Wonderful and Grenada. Pomegranate juice is a known factor in reducing LDL cholesterol (the bad cholesterol). The juicy outer layer of the seed is called arils. And here is a new one to me; the shrub is so tannic that it has long been used in tanning leather, the bark and the leaves that is, not the fruit. Do not eat the pulp or skin.
HOT BACON AND POMEGRANATE SPINACH SALAD
Let’s explore the flavors of this healthy little shrub with a hot bacon spinach salad. The take is to use reduced pomegranate juice instead of balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar in the dressing. Pop! Sweet then the fiber crunch again when we bite into the center of the aril.
I am of the belief that all holiday salads are good f0r the very reason that someone put some love and care into their salad, their opening gift to the meal. Even carrot and raisin salad is a treasure in the right home with the right people. For us, the red and green color in the salad is perfect as an even-handed salute to the holly and rose of Sharon.
4 slices hickory bacon, sliced and cooked
2 tablespoons minced white onion
1 teaspoon brown mustard
1/3 cup pomegranate syrup
1/3 cup Australian Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 tablespoons date palm sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon the bacon fat
1/5 teaspoon granulated salt
Cook the bacon to crisp with the onion. Drain the fat and set aside. Put the bacon, onion, mustard and palm sugar into a large mixing bowl. Slowly whisk the syrup into the bowl to thicken. Again, slowly whisk in the olive oil, and then the rice vinegar. Over heat whisk this until it reaches 110 degrees, at this point continue beating the vinaigrette and add the bacon fat and 1/5 teaspoon salt. Keep warm
4 plates
5 ounces spinach leaves
40 pomegranate seeds
8 rings red onion
4 strawberries, sliced
20 almonds
Arrange the items onto the plate into sections of spinach, pomegranate, then the red onion and strawberries. Line the edges of the plate with the almonds. Pour the hot vinaigrette onto the plate just before serving so that it streaks the plate with sweet and sour goodness.
ROAST PORK WITH POMEGRANATE AND AGED CHEDDAR
Here we are roasting or grilling in a kettle/ceramic grill. The cheddar has to be an aged white cheddar, no yellow. You can use Irish Porter Cheddar for a more dramatic effect as this cheese basically “rocks!”. In the even you cannot find the Irish then we are using aged white cheddar. Fruit and cheese are good anywhere. Pomegranate, pork and cheese are even better because Wonderful pomegranate is just that good.
Malta is a great little Island beverage that is brewed malt, cane and corn sugars and purified water. It is earthy, think the smell of turned black dirt, that good. Like spring plowing or the turning of a small garden space.
I have found Malta to be great in barbecue sauces and marinades for things as all American as a pork rib to tongue and liver. Malta is very versatile, and when combined with pomegranate juice it deepens the flavors even more to where the pomegranate really does resemble a rich rum infused molasses. Next time you see it in the store do not pass it by, stop, get a six pack and taste what more you an do to make the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Recipe serves four.
2 pounds pork loin, boneless
2 teaspoons Chinese Five Spice powder
1 lime zested
3 tablespoons walnut oil
1 tablespoon Sichuan pepper, ground
1 teaspoon allspice, ground
¼ cup as real soy soy sauce as you can find (no wheat)
1 cup washed and chopped leeks, white to pale green
½ cup chopped celery, leaves, ribs and all
7 ounces malta
5 ounces pomegranate juice
4 ounces aged white cheddar cheese
40 pomegranate arils
Rub the pork loin with the soya sauce and then with the walnut oil. Chill for 15 minutes. Combine the lime zest, 5 Spice, allspice, salt and pepper and rub into the pork so that it is evenly coated. Cover with the leeks and celery. Turn the oven onto 325 degrees. Roast for 45 minutes, the internal temperature will be 150 degrees when it is ready. Baste with the malta and pomegranate juice while it cooks.
Remove from oven and strain the juices into a saucepan. Turn the heat the medium high. Add 2 tablespoons molasses and 2 tablespoons brown sugar. Continue cooking until it has reduced by half and has thickened. I seriously prefer date palm sugar and black strap molasses in this dish, the brown sugar will make it more syrupy though, and it needs to stick to the pork like a glaze. If you need to enrich the flavor of this then add grenadine or if you have access to a Mid East/Turkish grocer then buy a half liter of pomegranate molasses. The Turkish style is very thick and earthy as they use a different kind of pomegranate for this syrup. I find that a very small amount goes a long way.
Please, dice two sweet potatoes, one onion, and place them on aluminum foil. Slice 4 ounces of butter and place over the potatoes. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of cardamom and 1 teaspoon of salt over the potato. Roll the aluminum foil into a tight cylinder. Bake in the same oven as the pork loin.
Chop 2 cups of leaf lettuce and sauté with a teaspoon of corn oil and then steam with 2 tablespoons of chicken stock. It is very simple.
Slice the pork loin into 16 slices. Divide pork, potatoes and lettuce between the plates. Glaze the pork with the reduction. Shave the cheese over the pork and then garnish with pomegranate.
CHICKEN TENDERS WITH POMEGRANATE AND BASMATI RICE
We are on the stovetop for this one. I like to cook it in a wok but a regular iron skillet or stainless steel pan is good as well. Chicken or turkey tenders are equally delicious for this dish. If you want fish then I highly recommend Alaskan black cod steaks. Sablefish/ black cod is one of the finest fish in the Alaskan waters, firm, white meat, a bit buttery and sweet.
Basmati rice smells like nuts when it is cooking. You do not need much seasoning at all for this rice. Just water, butter and salt. I love the smell of basmati rice cooking but if rice that smells like almonds and hazelnuts roasting turns you off then use the more floral Jasmine rice, and it that disturbs your sense of taste then the next option is Cal Rose rice, a very straight forward fat medium sized grain that is a standard to Chinese the world over; and they are right because Cal Rose is the best everyday rice I have ever had.
Brussels sprouts cooked with bacon and red bell peppers makes this little dish something to remember. Brussels sprouts cooked this way are better than you may remember little cabbages to taste. Don’t let this superb vegetable get away from you during the winter months. It is one of the great green veggies. When cooking Brussels sprouts you will boil them and then sauté them with the bacon and peppers. The boiling softens and lets the salt and bay leaf flavor into the body of the vegetable.Serves four.
24 ounces chicken tenders
½ cup sweet potato starch
½ cup all purpose white flour
½ teaspoon coriander, ground
½ teaspoon cumin, ground
1/3 teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon pink sea salt
2 ounces butter
1 ounce extra virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons Tiger Sauce (off the shelf, it is great)
¼ cup pomegranate juice
40 pomegranate arils
20 pomegranate arils crushed
20 leaves cilantro
Mix the sweet potato starch and flour together. Mix the spices together. Roll the chicken tenders in the spices and press them into the meat. Heat a large pan on medium high heat. Roll the tenders in the flour/starch. Dust off. Melt the butter in the pan and add the oil when it foams. Turn heat to medium. Then add the chicken piece by piece. Turn as the meat begins to turn light brown on each side. Remove from heat and pat the oils off. Set on plates and add cilantro leaves.
Heat the Tiger sauce, pomegranate seeds and crushed pomegranate on medium high heat in the same pan you cooked the tenders in. Scraped the bottom of the pan to get the good flavor remains from the chicken. Deglaze with soda water. Stir. Add a 1/3 teaspoon roasted chili paste and stir some more. When it has combined and has a uniform flavor and texture pour it over the chicken tenders.
Serve with Brussels sprouts and basmati rice and enjoy the very lively flavors of this mysterious dish. The mystery is in the way that all the strong flavors become a dignified point of delicious! Thank you very much and I do wish you the most beautiful of holidays in these Winter Georgia days and nights.
One day
Chill cold wet windy and chaotic
And the next day a song of finches
And thrushes sunning in the warm
December weather.
I remember skateboard Christmases
Rolling down Brown Road
On home made skate boards that broke
More often than they made the grade.
A jump over the bushes and the world
Changed to wilderness in the easement
Between Ball Park, North Park and Oak Avenue.
Chasing squirrels with Bear bows
And pump action pellet guns,
Wading the thing called a creek into Tucker Lake,
And walking out on the thing ice,
Spider web cracks and the echo of coming trouble,
Lay down and spread eagle slide to safety,
Fake fly to safety going home.
Home seems to be where I am always going.
To a warm hearth and steaming bowls of rice,
To hot Sleepy Time tea with sourwood honey,
To my family that I am always dreaming of,
To a place where I want to share all
Of the passions, the expressions,
The smiles and laughter of a life lived leading to today.
Leading to home to the heart that is yours,
Your heart beating a song that will embrace,
Your dark eyes that reflect and absorb,
That give so much more than any could deserve,
But there you are, Home, love, my love,
Beloved voice that has always been with me,
In childhood and as a man,
Beckoning me to seek the passion,
To seek this place that is you and me.


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